Our site is a lifestyle blog for retirees from an Irish retired couple's perspective URL:- https://www.justretired50plus.ie
"The Third Chapter" of our lives is a wonderful opportunity to experience and learn new things and tackle your bucket list.
Here are some of our experiences:-
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A sense of the City of Rome
Rome is an incredible city to visit and with so many amazing things to see and do, you’ll be spoilt for choice once you arrive. There are lots of free things to do in Rome across the whole city. It doesn’t matter if you’re visiting for a quick stopover, a long weekend or a few weeks.
Rome historically was the largest, wealthiest, most powerful city in the Western world. It is packed with countless historical landmarks, museums and over 900 churches. It can be loud, dirty and seems to be bursting at the seams with the mass of people living in and visiting the ancient city. When planning a visit to the most popular city in Italy, there are a few tips and suggestions that we recommend.
Our observations and tips from our trips to Rome
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When dining out, order the ‘vino della casa’ (house wine) instead of a bottle. It usually comes served by the litre in a lovely carafe.
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Italians don’t really do breakfast, they usually have a cornetto (croissant) and an espresso to start their day. Their real food comes at lunchtime. Even in hotels, don’t expect anything more than a ‘continental breakfast’. Italians eat late dinners between 08:00 - 11:00pm.
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Italy doesn’t have much of a tipping culture but restaurants will usually add a service charge to your bill.
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Museums and restaurants are open throughout the week, albeit Monday is their rest-day, therefore most municipal attractions remain closed. Keep Mondays for shopping and visiting parks.
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When visiting the Vatican Museums, the later you go, the better. Ignore those who say you should go early and queue up, that’s what everyone else is doing.
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On the first Sunday of each month, numerous museums and archaeological sites are open to the public for free. This includes the Colosseum, Roman Forum and Palatine Hill, Baths of Caracalla, and Galleria Borghese. This isn’t just restricted to Rome, it applies to all regions in Italy.
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Buy Colosseum tickets online, they work out much cheaper.
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Cash is king here. Make sure you carry enough cash with you each day to pay for incidentals like take away pizza or gelato. Even though things are changing, more often than not the smaller establishments will only accept cash.
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With every transaction you make, no matter how small the purchase, you’ll be given a small receipt (scontrino or ricevuta in Italian). You might feel inclined to leave it on the counter or throw it straight in the bin. Italy has what is known as the Guardia di Finanza which is basically the finance police. You’ll see them dressed in smart grey suits with a bright yellow strip down their suit leg. You will need the receipts to prove you have paid your tax.
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Ice-cream (Gelato) is on sale everywhere. Enjoying an authentic creamy gelato is one of the real pleasures when in Italy. Not all Gelatos are equal, when you find a good one, stick to it.
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While you don’t need to be fluent in Italian, knowing a few choice words and phrases will help you in situations outside of your hotel or visiting museums. Italians aren’t known for their mastery of the English language.
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Italians invented the coffee culture along with the macchiatto, espresso, and cappuccino. However, there are no ‘cafes’ in Italy, instead there are ‘bars’ and they are pretty much everywhere. When ordering coffee be sure to specify the type you want.
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Italians see milk as something you should only have at breakfast. Italians consider it a massive faux pas to order a cappuccino or (caffè) latte with or after lunch or dinner.
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Public toilets in Italy are pretty dismal. They don’t have toilet seats and you need to pay 50 cents to use a toilet. Be sure to bring your own tissues and wipes.
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Standing at the bar is cheaper, be prepared to pay a higher price to sit at a table.
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Pack comfortable shoes (flip flops, sandals and sneakers), light scarves and hats (for sun protection) and UV sunglasses. Opt for lighter and brighter clothing. Shorts are acceptable in most restaurants. However, when visiting churches, the rule is simple: cover knees and shoulders or you’ll be refused entry.
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Rome only has two metro lines with a third one under construction. During peak times and on weekends the metros can be extremely busy and crowded.
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Loitering around Roman monuments are men dressed up as gladiators who offer to pose with you in photos. Be advised that it comes at a cost.
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Also, at some point in Rome, you will be approached by poor folk usually with severely disfigured limbs. Be advised, that generally, all is not as it would first seem.
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You can drink Roman water. Ancient Romans kept the Eternal City well-hydrated providing the best drinking water to its citizen via its aqueducts. Public ‘nasoni’ fountains scattered throughout the city are absolutely safe to drink, but you might prefer to buy bottled mineral water: frizzante (sparkling) or naturale (still).
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When it comes to mosquitoes, Rome is comparable to other Mediterranean regions, so take your usual precautions.
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In most accommodations in Rome, it is preferred that you do not throw toilet paper into the toilet. You should use the bin supplied instead.
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Be wary of taxi driver potential rip offs. A popular one is to only given you back change of a €20 despite the fact that you paid them €50.
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Do not expect to eat great food in the historical centres, remember that you’re paying for the view and not high-quality food.
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Rome is no stranger to pickpockets who operate all over the city. They tend to stay around monuments, archaeological sites and popular bus routes. Be wary if anyone tries to distract you for any reason, be suspicious, especially if they are adamantly trying to get your attention.
St Peter’s Basilica in the Vatican City
Arguably the most famous Catholic Church in the world, St Peter’s Basilica is one of the main reasons that many people visit the Vatican City in Rome.
Surprisingly, considering it is such a huge attraction in the city, it is completely free to visit except if you wish to see the city from the very top of the Basilica. Its likely you will need to queue to enter, so give yourself an extra 30-minutes to enter at peak times.
Spanish Steps
Visitors to Rome flock to the Spanish Steps to take pictures of this iconic stairway. If you are looking for something that won’t cost you a penny then this is a great place to get your very own iconic souvenir photographs of Rome.
Roman Forum
If you want to see the Roman Forum but don’t want to pay for a ticket, then it’s easy to see lots of it from the street itself. Head over to Fori Imperiali and you’ll be able to see a good section from the pedestrian viewing platform there.
Pantheon
This 2,000-year-old temple, dedicated to the Roman gods is another one of the best free things to do in Rome if you’re trying to save. Being totally free, it does attract big crowds. As with all tourist hotspots, it can be expensive to eat there, should you choose to do so.
Piazza Navona
This bustling square is one of the focal points of Rome and you could happily stroll around here for a relaxing afternoon in the city. It is totally filled with stunning buildings and gorgeous Italian cafes, Piazza Navona is a perfect place to slow down and soak up the atmosphere of the city.
Trevi Fountain
The Trevi Fountain is one of the most famous spots and easily up there as one of the best free things to do in Rome. The Trevi Fountain in the centre of Rome can get super busy and even overwhelming at certain times. If you can, try to avoid peak times or weekends when visiting, alternatively, head here early in the morning before most visitors arrive.
Do not forget the tradition of throwing a coin into the Trevi Fountain itself and making a wish.
Santa Maria del Popolo
If you are an art lover, you will love Santa Maria del Popolo. Its one of the best free things to do in Rome if you want to see Caravaggio’s amazing work. Its totally free to enter and you will be able to see his incredible works inside.
We spent a week in Rome where we visited the many tourist sites that the city of Rome has to offer.
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Rome Video:-
Rome
A week long city break to Rome, Italy
For a week long city break, Rome has it all. It is stylish and intimate, yet bursting with life and energy all year round, with luxury hotels and trendy restaurants, cafes, shops and nightlife as well as a thriving arts and culture scene. There is lots to see and do, Rome is famed for its architecture and historical sights.
A sense of Rome, Italy
Everywhere you go in Rome you are walking in the steps of Emperors and Gladiators. Its top attractions are the Colosseum and the Vatican. The backdrop for these two wonderfully historic locations is the city of Rome itself, with its fantastic food and easily excitable, animated population. Culture oozes from every pore of Roman life. Its arts, language, religion, politics, libraries, cuisine, architecture and fashion.
What did the Romans ever do for us? Aright, but apart from providing roads across Europe, sanitation, medicine, education, irrigation systems, public health, fresh water systems, baths and public order, they did nothing for Europe !
We have been to Rome numerous times and each time we discover new places to visit and things to do, but we always tend to stay in the centre of the city. It is within easy reach of all of the tourist attractions and there is a real sense of vibrancy to the city especially at night. We have found Rome to be an extremely safe city
Recommendations for a city break to Rome, Italy
A great way to spend seven days in Rome, in our opinion, would be something along the following:
Day 1: The open-top city tour bus in order to get your bearings and to acquaint yourself with the general geography of the city, followed by a boat trip down the Tiber.
Day 2: A trip to the Colosseum is a must. A nighttime opera with dinner in one of the smaller opera houses. To avoid the inevitable queues, you should prebook online for the best price deals.
Day 3: Visit the Spanish steps and take in the shopping opportunities. Walk all the way to the Trevi fountain
Day 4: Take a trip out of the city to the town of Tivoli and see Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d’Este. This is a day long tour. It is 20 miles journey each way, but well worth it.
Day 5: Visit the Vatican. Yet again, to avoid the inevitable queues, prebook online for the best price deals.
The rest of the time just wallow in the atmosphere of Roman life, by visiting as many restaurants, coffee shops and public piazzas as possible.
Our must see recommendation for a city break to Rome, Italy:-
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The Colosseum.
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The Vatican.
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The Spanish steps and the Trevi fountain.
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Visit the town of Tivoli, 20 miles outside Rome.
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A visit to any of Rome’s Museums or Galleries, and
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A night at the Opera
The average cost per person for the 7 night stay is €800.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at your home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Cinque Terre, Italy
Italy - (AL 3 - 7) A 5 day self directed tour of the Cinque Terre (5 coastal Villages) in North West Italy.
We suggest a minimum of a five day break to the Cinque Terra in North West Italy wallowing in the uniqueness of the five coastal villages (Riomaggiore, Manarola , Corniglia, Vernazza and Monterosso al Mare).
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Cinque Terre, North West Italy tour Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/p0tLqsiT44Q
Cinque Terre, North West Italy.
For a five day break, the Cinque Terre in Italy is wonderful in its simplicity. There is still a feeling of authenticity about the five remote fishing villages, each with its own different personality. There are still few roads connecting these, until recently, remote isolated coastal hamlets, accessible to each other via stunning mountain and coastal trails. These trails are a hill walkers dream. Modern access has introduced a train that connects them to Genoa, Pisa and Rome. The closest airports are Genoa and Pisa. On our trip we choose to fly into Pisa and from there we were able to get an integrated train ticket which covered the PisaMover into Pisa, the intercity train to La Spezia and then a regional train to the Cinque Terre - all possible in just over an hour.
A sense of Cinque Terre, North West Italy
Italian is the language of the Cinque Terre, however, the vast majority of people speak very good English.
The Cinque Terre have been a Unesco World Heritage Site since 1997.
Fantastic paths and trails cross the seemingly impregnable cliff sides make it an ideal destination for hill-walkers. The railway line, introduced in the 19th century, ferries those less fleet of foot and the foot sore trekkers from village to village. The villages themselves have been in existence since the medieval period. Cars have been restricted from journeying along the Cinque Terre, except for services and local access. Tourists are drawn from all over the world to view its iconic colourful coastline villages, chiselled into the cliff sides. These villages are then in-turn surrounded by steeply terraced cliffs housing complicated fields, gardens and vineyards. Each village is a product of over two millennia of painful non mechanised construction.
Recommendations for Cinque Terre, North West Italy
Purchase a Cinque Terre Card to cover all trains and hiking fees. The Card is good value and it can be purchased in advance online. Do not forget your walking boots.
It was our preference to stay in Hotel Bahia in Monterosso al Mare. Monterosso is the most westerly of the five villages and it is the only village that has a large beautiful white sandy beach front. It is also the flattest of the five villages.
A great way to spend five days in Cinque Terre, in our opinion, would be something along the following:
Day 1 - 3: Each day take the train to one or two, if time permits, of the other four villages. The villages are ordered from west to east starting with Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore. The beach in Monterosso is always a welcoming reward for the weary traveller in the late afternoon.
Day 1 -3: Instead of taking the train, walk between the villages via the mountain and coastal trails and use the train as your return taxi, the further you venture out. Each of the villages are equidistant from each other at only a five to six minute train ride each journey.
Day 4: Take the trip to Portofino. Get a train from Monterosso to Rapallo, a journey of an 1.5 hours, with only one change at Sestri Levante. From Rapallo walk the seven kilometres of red carpet from the railway station all the way to the centre of Portfino. It is a journey well worth doing, as the carpet takes the walker along the sea front, through a forest and down into the marina in Portofino, which is a more sophisticated, albeit somewhat more expensive, delightful town.
Day 5: Return to your preferred village, everyone’s is different. Spend more time soaking up the atmosphere and treat yourself to an extended Italian style four course lunch accompanied with wines of your choice. Stroll around the village for your post lunch constitutional and find yourself a wine bar with a view, of which there are many, and let Italian charm enter into your pores.
As all good things come to an end. So its time to pack up. If your flight is in the evening, it is possible to leave your luggage at Pisa Airport’s left luggage, and take a tour around Pisa to capture the “holding the leaning tower of Pisa up or pushing it over”, photos and selfies.
Walk the Via Amore between Riomaggiore and Manarola if it is open. It is a beautiful flat cliff edge walk that will only take you about 20 minutes to walk. If you need to reduce walking, in each village, take the tunnel from the train station to the village centre, instead of the uphill routes. The tunnels are all clean, well light and safe to use.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Cinque Terre, North West Italy:-
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Take the mountain and coastline trails between the villages.
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Do the the short train hop journeys to the neighbouring villages
(3) Strolling around anyone (or all) of the five villages can be an awe-inspiring experience
(4) Be sure to make the trip to Portofino, with all its charm.
The average cost per person / per week is €750 (depending on type of hotel/ accommodation selected)
All of the tour tickets are available over the web where some savings can be made.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Puglia, Italy
We spent eight days visiting the tourist attractions that Puglia, Italy has to offer.
Link to still image montage of Puglia visit:-
Puglia, Southern Italy 2019
We visited Puglia, Southern Italy in June 2019 for an eight day tour. The climate was warm and sunny and ideal for open air trips and excursions.
In considering a trip to Puglia, we decided to take a guided tour with the Travel Department, with the same guide on-hand throughout the entire holiday.
The tour comprised a seven nights stay in a four star hotel in Martina Franca on a half-board basis. All of our daily coach trips began and ended at our hotel.
After our seven nights at the Villa Rosa hotel we flew directly back to Dublin from Bari Airport.
A sense of Puglia, Southern Italy 2019
The official currency of Puglia is the Euro.
During our trip we drove over 2500Km and visited a variety of towns including, Locorotondo, Alberobello, Lecce, Ostuni, Polignano, Trani, Bari and Matera, all from our base in Martina Franca.
If you get an opportunities during your travels in Puglia to do wine tasting, we thoroughly enjoyed our visit to the iPastini winery. We also learnt a lot about olive oil at our tasting session in L'Acropoli di Puglia in Martina Franca.
Puglia, up until the arrival of the ‘Xylello’ olive tree disease, produced 50% of all of Italy’s olive harvest. The disease threatens to destroy the olive industry that, until now, has survived for thousands of years. The Puglia region is one of the least wealthy in Italy, with the result that in Matera, people lived in caves that they carved out of the rock. The Italian president forcibly moved all of the residents out of these caves in the 1952 and into public housing, in an attempt to disguise the poverty that it displayed. The caves lay abandoned until the 1980’s, when they started their transformation into a modern tourist classic destination, that we know today.
Our general experience of the people from Puglia was that they are extremely informal, friendly and generally very warm and welcoming. They work very hard to attract tourists to the south of the country, which is very different to the more established areas in the north and centre. Puglia has a lot to offer.
Recommendations for Puglia, Southern Italy.
There is a language barrier, if you speak only English. So it lends itself to undertaking a trip using guided tours, however, most of the younger generation speak good English.
In each of the six locations, we visited the local tourist trails and highlights on offer. We also visited some of the local vineyards and these left us with a genuine sense of the excellent of Southern Italian organic wines. In Puglia they drive on the right hand side of the road, if you normally use left hand side of the road driving, you should be ultra careful. With the exception of main roads, the countryside roads can become unexpectedly very narrow.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Puglia, Southern Italy 2019:-
(1) Our visit to Matera, which is the 2019 European Capital of Culture, was the highlight of our entire Puglia trip.
(2) Our second choice would be Alberobello, with its variety of trulli houses.
(3) Our third would be Ostuni, with its panoramic views of the country-side.
As always, the people we met on the tour and our Travel Department guide, Anna Maria, enriched the whole experience.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Venice, Italy
We spent 7 days visiting the tourist attractions from the cities visited on our cruise trip from Venice, Italy to Izmir in Turkey.
Link to still image montage of our cruise from Venice in Italy to Izmir in Turkey visit:-
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Venice Video_2:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/CsyMOV1s9X8
Venice to Izmir
In July 2013 the extended family went on a seven night cruise from Venice to Izmir in Turkey, preceded by a three night stay on the Lido in Venice. A cruise is ideal for a large family holiday as it caters for all ages and tastes, and also appeases the US side of the family who wanted to “see Europe”. It was our third trip to Venice, we had been there already in 2007 and 2010, so we had a good handle on what there was to see in Venice.
Venice
Venice is a magical place, like nowhere else you have ever been. We never grow tired of Venice, and every time we visit, we discover something or somewhere new. Venice is the capital of northern Italy’s Veneto region and is build on more than 100 small islands that are separated by canals and linked by over 400 bridges, all located in a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea.
We pre-booked a half day private tour for our group which commenced with a boat tour of the Gems of the Venetian Lagoon, followed by a walking tour of the main attractions – Piazza San Marco; Doge’s Palace; Saint Mark’s Basilica and the fish and vegetable markets – which showcased specimens never before seen in Ireland. We even managed to get a ride on a gondola with cornetto in-hand.
On the second day, Art and I visited the Peggy Guggenheim gallery, where the works of Picasso, Pollock and Dali are well represented. In our opinion this gallery is one of the most important cultural attractions in Venice and a great way to spend a few hours……. the café is wonderful as well.
You can’t go to Venice and not attend a concert. Our favourite is the ‘Interpreti Veneziani : Vivaldi in Venice, which is held in the main hall in the Chiesa di San Vidal. A few hours of joyful exuberance and Italian brio is enough to lift your spirit to another level.
We did a trip to Murano to see their glass ware being made and another trip to Burano to purchase some hand made lace.
Our cruise
Our Celebrity ship offered every comfort and a wide selection of culinary experiences. We took in Dubrovnik in Southern Croatia, docked in Piraeus near Athens, Izmir in Turkey and then back to Split in Northern Croatia before returning to Venice and then home to Dublin……with the yanks heading back to the States.
Each day we disembarked at a new city and headed off on our various tours or did our own thing.
Dubrovnik and Split are interesting cities and relatively new destinations for tourists. Both are steeped in history with a real sense of a troubled past. It is hard to believe that it is over twenty years since the Croatian War of Independence. Our guide around Dubrovnik showed us the remaining evidence of that brutal war and reminded us of the hardship suffered. Croatia achieved independence from Yugoslavia in 1995, but paid a high price. Approximately 21-25% of Croatia’s economy was ruined, with an estimated US$37 billion in damaged infrastructure, lost output, and refugee-related costs. Over 20,000 people were killed in the war, with refugees displaced on both sides.
Our visit to Athens coincided with their financial crises, which was reflected in a dark cloud which seemed to hang over the city and its people at that time. Our tour took in all the main sights around Athens, including the Acropolis, the Parthenon Temple, Pnyx Hill where we were able to admire the incredible views of the Aegean Sea as you look out over the city.
Izmir was a big surprise as we hadn’t expected it to be so cosmopolitan. It is also regarded as a cultural hub where elegant mosques and traditional bazaars dot the palm-lined boulevards and ancient Greek ruins look down from the hill tops. While some of our group stayed to haggle for bargains in the bazaars, others opted to go to Ephesus. The ancient city of Ephesus is one of the most well-preserved Greco-Roman ancient cities in the world. They also visited the House of the Virgin Mary, one of the pilgrimage centres of Christians and the site where Virgin Mary passed her time and died. The chat around the dinner table that night was mostly about the wonders of Ephesus…………so much so that I wished that we had gone as well.
Be wary of anyone in the streets of Izmir offering small currency exchange for a €5 note. My brother Thomas was hood-winked…………….we had such a laugh !
Throughout our holiday the weather was perfect for cruising, sun-bathing and touring. We had a wonderful time and all the more enjoyable because we were with family.
Sense of Venice to Izmir cruise
In terms of currency, we were able to use the Euro throughout, even in Turkey where they were happy to receive it.
Our general experience of the Italian people was that they are very friendly, they dress more stylishly than most and are definitely much more casual, they also have a great affinity with Irish people in terms of being up-beat and with a sense of humour. Indeed, as tourists we felt welcomed in all cities visited.
Given the different languages spoken, it is always a good idea to get a guide so that you get a better understanding and appreciation of where you are visiting. Celebrity Cruises offer a great selection of on-shore tours and activities, or indeed you can organise your own tour.
Our must see recommendation for a trip from Venice to Izmir
(1) Our few days in Venice were really enjoyable – Venice is a magical place;
(2) The tours of the different cities, reminding us of the extraordinary rich history of Europe, and
(3) The nightly shows on-board the Celebrity cruise – great variety and most enjoyable
Cost per person for the holiday was roughly €1,500 Euro.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Sardinia, Italy
A sense of the island of Sardinia
Sardinia is one of the best, reasonably priced, destinations in Europe for water-sports enthusiasts. It is a wild island placed in the middle of the Mediterranean Sea, offering so many beautiful places and activities that it often becomes bewildering to choose the best ones.
It is a very picturesque island of a thousand unique beaches. However, travelling to Sardinia is not only about the sea. Sardinia is sometimes rightly defined as a micro-continent, where seemingly endless mountain ranges coexist with green woods and forests, agricultural plains, rivers, lakes and largely uninhabited, pristine territories.
The best time to visit Sardinia is from the beginning of April to the end of May and from the beginning of September to the end of October, while it's still warm enough to swim in the sea and even better if you prefer to cycle short distances or want to enjoy some Sardinia hiking trails. Sardinia can be scorching hot and crowded in the high season of June to August.
Outside of famous Sardinia beach resorts, generally all younger Sardinians speak English.
Its a good time for you to learn and use some phrases in Italian. However, what Sardinians lack in spoken languages, they definitely make up for in physical communication and are amazingly successful in solving tourist's problems without speaking the English language.
Our general experience of the Sardinian people was that they are extremely friendly. They are non formal and particularly in the countryside, they are very warm and welcoming.
Our observations and tips from our trips to the island of Sardinia
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Sardinia is easily accessible thanks to three airports (Olbia, Cagliari, Alghero) and three main ports (Olbia, Cagliari and Porto Torres). There are many daily ferries from mainland Italy, the shortest of which is around six hours duration.
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Sardinian beaches are generally clean and well-maintained. One thing that makes them stand out from beaches elsewhere, is the high standard of their restaurants right on the beach.
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We would encourage visitors to rent a car and don't worry - driving around Sardinia is easy. A car will let you explore Sardinia on your own terms, without being limited to only one area. Watch out for goats and sheep especially when driving your car. Never beep at goats. We did and they got mad and attacked our car bumper.
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Sardinian towns and villages are charming, full of attractions and a real joy to visit.
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Pack one light, rainproof jacket (especially when going up the Sardinian mountains as the weather can change very fast), comfortable shoes (flip flops, sandals and sneakers), light scarves and hats (for sun protection) and UV sunglasses. Opt for lighter and brighter clothing. Shorts are acceptable in most restaurants.
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You can drink Sardinian water. Tap water is absolutely safe to drink, but you might prefer to buy bottled mineral water: frizzante (sparkling) or naturale (still).
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Usually, there are no more mosquitoes in Sardinia than in other Mediterranean regions, so take your usual precautions.
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In most Sardinian accommodation, it is preferred that you do not throw toilet paper into the toilet. You should use the bin supplied instead.
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If you are the hill walking adventurer type then visit the Gola Su Gorropu with its high rock walls and chasms. It is the European/Italian equivalent of the grand canyon, but smaller. Sardinia is full of hiking trails (both for beginners and climbing enthusiasts) and scenic road biking routes go through Sardinia wild mountainous vistas.
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Do not take shells or sand from the beaches, no matter how tempted you are. It is a serious offence.
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Sardinia is literally dotted with NATO military bases established after World War II, these are all no go zones.
Alghero
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Stroll the ramparts of the old town.
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To the west of Alghero on Capo Caccia is Neptune's Grotto It's one of Italy's largest marine caves, formed a couple of million years ago. To get there, you can take a boat trip from the port of Alghero, or you can go by road. Take the footpath from the top down the Goat’s Staircase. with its 656 steps.
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Drive to Stintino Beach, it is reckoned to be one of the best in Sardinia.
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Take a tour of the area and Nuraghe and see the elusive Sardinian Griffon Vultures as well as the cork oaks, a Sardinian specialty not only for corking bottles.
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This is great wine country, so take your pick of any of the wineries in the area.
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Alghero had been ruled by the Catalan Crown of Aragon for a long time. To this day many inhabitants still speak this dialect, which is why the Catalan language has equal standing with spoken Italian here.
Barbagia
Visit the Mamoiada Mask Museum. Mamoiada is a small town in the Nuoro region of Sardinia tucked into the Barbagia mountains. Throughout the town of Mamoiada you’ll find mask stores selling handcrafted versions of the museum masks.
Cagliari
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Visit the Cagliari San Benedetto Fish Market, a fish market like no other.
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Basilica of San Saturnino, an ancient structure that was used for beheadings, besieged by the Catalans and bombed by the allies.
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Take in the Sant’Efisio Festival. Sardinia’s most important festival, has been held in Cagliari for over 300 years. It takes place on May 1st each year. People from all over the island dress up with their finest traditional costumes, knights riding horses, and huge decorated floats driven by gigantic oxen, all gathering in Cagliari to express their devotion and faith to Sant’ Efisio, a legendary Christian Martyr.
Costa Smeralda
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It is the Sardinian coast at its most idilic, with its millionaire yachts all on display, in the north east of the island. It is the Sardinian equivalent to the southern Spanish town of Puerto Banus.
Oristano
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Take in the Sartiglia festival of masks is held each year in late February.
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Visit the Roman site of Tharros. A spectacularly situated archaeological site on the thin stiletto blade that separates the Mediterranean sea and the Gulf of Oristano.
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Tour the Sinis Peninsula & Cabras in western Sardinia.
A holiday visiting the tourist attractions Sardinia, an Italian Island paradise in the central Mediterranean.
Link to still image montage of Sardinia visit:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/4qa0CKw8Ydc
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Laid-Back Sardinia 2022 Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/-j5K__f6LJs
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Laid-Back Sardinia 2023 Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/JGlTzZGqE_4
The island of Sardinia
We have visited Sardinia many times over the last 10 year period. Sardinia is a large Italian island in the Mediterranean Sea. It has nearly 2,000km of coastline, sandy beaches and a mountainous interior crossed with great hiking trails. The climate is temperate Mediterranean and ideal for open air trips and excursions as it is surrounded by sea with a dark blue to turquoise palette of colours. With its tropical sea and transparent water it is both a perfect sailing and diving location. It has up to 30 very different dive locations made up of : 11 sites on the East coast, from Capo Figari to the Gulf of Orosei ; 12 sites on the south coast, from Arbatax to Bosa ; and 7 site on the Northern coast from Alghero to Mortorio. The dives vary from wreck to cave dives, all within relatively shallow nearshore waters. All dive sites fall within 20m - 40m deep and with excellent visibility in the water. It is hard to beat as a dive holiday location.
Sardinia is bounded to the West by the Alboran Sea which has the greatest effect from the Atlantic Ocean current water exchange. To the East its seas are influenced by the waters from the Balearic Islands to Sicily. The Adriatic and the Eastern Mediterranean are the two other areas of influence on Sardinia’s North and South coasts. Sardinia is right in the middle of the central Mediterranean, in a position that is widely considered conducive to creating a synthesis of the marine biological characteristics of all these surrounding sea areas. Compared with other Mediterranean locations, the sea that surrounds Sardinia is relatively stable. Surface water temperatures fluctuate consistently from 12 to 14 degrees Celsius in February and 23 to 25 degrees Celsius in August.
Sense of Sardinia
The official currency of Sardinia is the Euro. During our various trips we have driven all around the island. If you get any opportunities during your travels in Sardinia to visit the old walled town of Alghero, then do so, it is a very worthwhile experience. Head north-west from the centre of Alghero for just a few kilometres, and you'll discover Maria Pia beach (Spiaggia di Maria Pia).
Our general experience of the Sardinian people was that they are extremely friendly. They are non formal and particularly in the countryside, they are very warm and welcoming.
Recommendations for Sardinia
There is no language barrier, if you speak only English. All the younger generation and the majority of older people can converse quite happily in English. So it lends itself to undertaking a trips that can be self guided tours.
In each of the locations around Sardinia we visited the local tourist trails and highlights on offer. We also visited some of the local communities market events and these left us with a genuine sense of Sardinian life. In Sardinia, the tourist season extends from April to November. The months of June and July are very busy tourist months and high temperatures. August is both hot and extremely busy with tourists from the Italian mainland making up the bulk of the tourists.
There are a lot of things to do in Sardinia depending on your preference:-
1 City visits to Cagliari, Olbia, Arzachena or Alghero;
2 Choose from any of the offshore boats tours on offer;
3 Cycling is a very popular method of touring various attractions;
4 Italians love their food, so visit the local food market to soak up the atmosphere;
5 Visit any of the very well preserved archaeological sites on offer;
6 Join in any of the many hill walks on offer;
7 Do a winery and wine tasting tour;
8 Visit any of the museums and nature parks;
9 There are a variety of sandy and rocky beach types to choose from.
All of the visits, tours, cruises and trips are available as both half day and full day experiences.
There is a wide variety of hotel accommodation available to suit all holiday budgets. If you like excellent Italian food and hospitality, then look no further, Sardinia has it all.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Sardinia:-
(1) Our visit to Alghero was the highlight of our entire Sardinian trip.
(2) Our second choice would be a visit to any of the 30 great diving site experiences.
(3) Our third choice would be the boat trip experience offshore along the coastline of Sardinia.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast
We spent eight days visiting the many tourist attractions that the Bay of Naples, Italy has to offer.
Link to video image montage of Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast visit:-
Link to video of highlight locations visited during our trip
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Isle of Capri Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/UJ4kRyObdvc
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Vesuvius Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/vi7PN1-JPyw
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Pompeii Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/fMHL_yB62KI
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Herculaneum Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/2eWTrZD8gew
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Sorrento Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/9s8VXrqtoJM
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Amalfi Coast by Bus Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/4PuYbgT5LHQ
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Amalfi Coast by Boat Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/XWhdUwmqD7k
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus AnaCapri chair lift Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/B7p_hgEFAqM
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Monte Faito cable car Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/YXxKzUO0LVs
A sense of the City of the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast
The Bay of Naples and the Amalfi coast are incredible regions of Italy to visit and with so many amazing things to see and do, you’ll be spoilt for choice once you arrive. There are lots of things to do across this whole region. It doesn’t matter if you’re visiting for a quick stopover, a long weekend or a few weeks.
Capri is a beautiful island that lies to the south of the Bay of Naples, just a few kilometres from the end of the Sorrento peninsula. Although is a small island of roughly 4 by 2 miles, it still has a lot to offer any visitor.
Naples historically was the largest, most picturesque, highly sought after region in Southern Italy by the Romans. It is packed with countless historical landmarks, museums and churches. It can be loud, dirty and seems to be bursting at the seams with the mass of people living in high density apartments and those visiting this very popular holiday region.
The best time to visit:
Spring ( Mar - May): Beautiful weather and fewer crowds, Avoid Easter and National holidays, Apr 25th and May 1st, respectively.
Summer (Jun - Aug): Peak season, crowded and hottest time of the year.
Autumn (Sept - Nov): Another great time to visit. The weather is mild, but many businesses start to close for the season in November.
Winter (Dec - Feb): It is cold and wet, with choppy seas. Businesses are closed and there are limited ferry services.
Naples
The historic wealth of Naples was used to fund the industrial expansion of northern Italy. As a consequence it has lost its status and glamour while still offering a fascinating collection of museums, churches and architecture. The best frescoes and mosaics of Pompeii and Herculaneum ended up in the Naples Archaeological Museum. Take time to explore Naples (watch out for the vespas). This living medieval city is its own best attraction. This pulse of Italy with its captivating Italian accent, Italian food, history and superb weather for two thirds of the year, has to be seen to be believed, (See Naples and die).
Vesuvius
Vesuvius last erupted in 1944, it has been dormant since then. It originally erupted in 79 AD covering the surrounding towns in ash, which captured them as they were then, only to be excavated to form a timestamp of historic importance today. After completing visits to either or both of Pompeii or Herculaneum, complete your experience by scaling the volcano that made them both famous. Vesuvius now stands 1300m high compared with its original height of 2000m. Shortly after the eruption, the top 700m of Vesuvius was blown sky high and then deposited itself over the area to the south downwind of the volcano itself.
The summit is now accessible via walking, car, bus or taxi. It is a lunar-like landscape, now desolate. It is steep often cold and windy 30 minute hike to the top from the carpark, for a sweeping vista of the Bay of Naples below.
Pompeii
Visitors to Pompeii are given a window back into history of a 2000 years ago and it offers an understanding of what life must have been like back then. An entire city, over an area of 65 hectares, has been uncovered from under 7m of dirt and volcanic ash, for the visitor to explore. It is an archaeologists dream come true. From these ruins they have learned about daily roman life in 79AD.
Herculaneum
Smaller and better preserved under 20m of volcanic dust, Herculaneum is a time capsule of that time at the height of the Roman era of supremacy. It is less crowded than its big sister city, Pompeii. It is a smaller area of relatively intact buildings with surprisingly well preserved detail. Both Herculaneum and Vesuvius are accessible from the town of Ercolano. They are just 500m walking from the train station and a 20 minute bus journey, also from the train station (Ercolano Scavi) carpark, respectively.
Sorrento
Sorrento is well positioned as both a base to stay while visiting the area and as a sight seeing destination itself, just an hour south of Naples. It is built on a cliff between the mountains and the Mediterranean sea. At peak season, tourists can match in size the population of Sorrento at 20,000 people. It can both be used as a gateway to Capri by ferry from its port and as a starting point for your coach journey of the Amalfi coast. Sorrento features an unspoilt old quarter, a spectacular cliff side setting and a lively main shopping street. Everyone seems to speak good English and it is peppered with lemon and olive groves throughout the town.
Amafi Coast
The Amalfi coast offers one of the world’s great bus rides. The coastal journey from Sorrento to Salerno will afford the passenger ample opportunities for Instagram photo classic moments. You cannot but be left with a deep respect for those engineers and builders who build it in the first instance and even more respect for the bus drivers who routinely drive this stretch of road. All the while, the Mediterranean sparkles a mere 500m drop below you.
The Amalfi coast towns are generally pretty but bursting with tourists. They are generally overpriced and congested and all the small towns along the way are a very long hike upwards from tiny beaches. So sit back in the bus and enjoy the ride.
Capri
Capri is a beautiful island that lies in the south if the Naples Bay. It is build on top of a block of limestone rocks. It is known for its crystal clear turquoise waters.
It does attract big crowds. As with all tourist hotspots, it can be expensive to eat there, should you choose to do so. Capri was initially made famous by the roman emperors Tiberius and Augustus using it as their hide away holiday vacation spot. But, today it is colonised during day time hours by tourists looking to see the rich and famous. Prices are commensurate with Milan and Rome haute couture districts. Via Camerelle leads to a path of shops displaying current fashion at its finest, with dreamy window displays and deluxe price tags.
Piazzetta square, a lively shopping hub and a good location to take in the sights, people watch and have a coffee. It can be reached by the funicular from the sea level Marina Grande. Marina Grande is the key transportation hub for visiting the whole island. Its beach is free also.
Its chief attractions are an all island boat tip, the Blue Grotto and its Cable Chair lift from Anacapri to the summit on Monte Solaro. Not recommended for anyone scared of heights. The round trip takes 40 minutes, with amazing views of Naples Bay and Sorrento from the summit. Also in AnaCapri visit Axel Munthe’s Villa San Michele with its fabulous gardens overlooking Ischia Island, he spent his whole life creating them.
Capri is reached by ferry with port connections from Naples and Sorrento.
It is especially popular among celebrities and honeymooners.
When planning a visit to one of the most popular regions in southern Italy, there are a few tips and suggestions that we recommend.
Our observations and tips from our trips to the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast
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The only thing predictable about the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi Coastline is the friendliness of its shopkeepers and the boldness of its motorcycle and car drivers.
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The region is blessed with a very good groundwater system allied to this it has volcanic fertile soil, making it one of the garden food production areas for Italy, for particularly: Oranges, Lemons, Kiwi, Olives, Nuts, Grapes, Tomatoes. Tip: If you see the nets covering the top of the orchards then they are protecting the cirrus fruits for the wind and the sun. Alternately, if the nets are on the ground, they are positioned for Olive harvesting.
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Keep a bottle of water handy during your trips as there can be a reasonable degree of walking and climbing involved.
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There is only one main roadway in and out of Piano Di Sorrento. At peak times there can be long traffic delays on this road. Large tour buses, although skilfully driven, can lead to delays and congestion, particularly on the very many hairpin bend stretches.
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When dining out, order the ‘vino della casa’ (house wine) instead of a bottle. It usually comes served by the litre in a lovely carafe.
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Italians don’t really do breakfast, they usually have a cornetto (croissant) and an espresso to start their day. Their real food comes at lunchtime. Even in hotels, don’t expect anything more than a ‘continental breakfast’. Italians eat late dinners between 08:00 - 11:00pm.
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Italy doesn’t have much of a tipping culture but restaurants will usually add a service charge to your bill.
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Museums and restaurants are open throughout the week, albeit Monday is their rest-day, therefore most municipal attractions remain closed. Keep Mondays for shopping and visiting parks.
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On the first Sunday of each month, numerous museums and archaeological sites are open to the public for free. This isn’t just restricted to Naples, it applies to all regions in Italy.
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Try to buy tickets online, prior to your trip, they work out much cheaper.
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Cash is king here. Make sure you carry enough cash with you each day to pay for incidentals like take away pizza or gelato. Even though things are changing, more often than not the smaller establishments will only accept cash.
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With every transaction you make, no matter how small the purchase, you’ll be given a small receipt (scontrino or ricevuta in Italian). You might feel inclined to leave it on the counter or throw it straight in the bin. Italy has what is known as the Guardia di Finanza which is basically the finance police. You’ll see them dressed in smart grey suits with a bright yellow strip down their suit leg. You will need the receipts to prove you have paid your tax.
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Ice-cream (Gelato) is on sale everywhere. Enjoying an authentic creamy gelato is one of the real pleasures when in Italy. Not all Gelatos are equal, when you find a good one, stick to it.
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While you don’t need to be fluent in Italian, knowing a few choice words and phrases will help you in situations outside of your hotel or visiting museums. Italians aren’t known for their mastery of the English language.
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Italians invented the coffee culture along with the macchiatto, espresso, and cappuccino. However, there are no ‘cafes’ in Italy, instead there are ‘bars’ and they are pretty much everywhere. When ordering coffee be sure to specify the type you want.
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Italians see milk as something you should only have at breakfast. Italians consider it a massive faux pas to order a cappuccino or (caffè) latte with or after lunch or dinner.
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Public toilets in Italy are pretty dismal. They don’t have toilet seats and you need to pay 50 cents to use a toilet. Be sure to bring your own tissues and wipes.
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Standing at the bar is cheaper, be prepared to pay a higher price to sit at a table.
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Pack comfortable shoes (flip flops, sandals and sneakers), light scarves and hats (for sun protection) and UV sunglasses. Opt for lighter and brighter clothing. Shorts are acceptable in most restaurants. However, when visiting churches, the rule is simple: cover knees and shoulders or you’ll be refused entry.
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Train travel around the Bay of Naples is easy and inexpensive. During peak times and on weekends the trains can be extremely busy and crowded.
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You can drink local spring water. Ancient Romans kept the Eternal City well-hydrated providing the best drinking water to its citizen via its aqueducts. Public ‘nasoni’ fountains scattered throughout the city are absolutely safe to drink, but you might prefer to buy bottled mineral water: frizzante (sparkling) or naturale (still).
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When it comes to mosquitoes, the Bay of Naples is comparable to other Mediterranean regions, so take your usual precautions.
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In most accommodations in Naples and Capri, it is preferred that you do not throw toilet paper into the toilet. You should use the bin supplied instead.
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Be wary of taxi driver potential rip offs. A popular one is to only give you back change of a €20 despite the fact that you paid them €50.
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Do not expect to eat great food in the historical centres, remember that you’re paying for the view and not high-quality food.
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Italy is no stranger to pickpockets who operate all over the country. They tend to stay around monuments, archaeological sites and popular bus routes. Be wary if anyone tries to distract you for any reason, be suspicious, especially if they are adamantly trying to get your attention.
Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy 2021
We visited the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy in Sept 2021 for an eight day tour. The climate was warm and sunny and ideal for open air trips and excursions.
In considering a trip to the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, we decided to take a guided tour with the Travel Department, with the same guide on-hand throughout the entire holiday.
The tour comprised a seven nights stay in a four star hotel, the Grand Hotel Moon Valley on a half-board basis. All of our daily coach trips began and ended at our hotel.
After our seven nights at the Grand Hotel Moon Valley in Seiano we flew directly back to Dublin from Napoli Airport.
A sense of Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy 2021
The official currency of the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast is the Euro.
During our trip we were driven by private coach and visited a variety of towns including, Naples, Sorrento, Amalfi, Ravello, Ercolano, Capri, AnaCapri and optionally Positano, all from our base in Seiano, Vico Equense.
If you get an opportunity during your travels to the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast do the archaeological tours of ancient Rome, we thoroughly enjoyed our visits to Pompeii, Herculaneum and Mount Vesuvius.
The region is now one of the less wealthy regions in Italy, however, historically it was the chief city of southern Italy. After the formation of the Italian Republic, the historic wealth of Naples was used to fund the industrial expansion of northern Italy. Despite loosing its glamour and status to the north, its inherent charm, amazing scenery and historical attractions, wonderful food and its splendid weather have transformed it into the classic modern tourist destination, that we know today.
Our general experience of the people from Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast was that they are extremely informal, friendly and very warm and welcoming. There is a natural affinity between the Irish and the Italians, that is rarely paralleled anywhere else in the world. They work very hard to attract tourists to the south of the country, which is very different to the more established areas in the north and centre. Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast has a lot to offer.
Recommendations for the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy.
There is a language barrier, if you speak only English. So it lends itself to undertaking a trip using guided tours, however, most of the younger generation speak good English.
In each of the six locations, we visited the local tourist trails and highlights on offer. We also visited some of the local hostelries and these left us with a genuine sense of the excellence of the Southern Italian welcome for tourists. In Italy they drive on the right hand side of the road, if you normally use left hand side of the road driving, you should be ultra careful. With the exception of main roads, the countryside roads can become unexpectedly very narrow. Driving in Southern Italy is not for the faint hearted.
During our stay in Seiano, we took the opportunity to take the train, five stops, to Castellammare Di Stabia train station. From the same railway platform you can get access to the cable car lift (Funivia Faito) up to Vilaggio Monte Faito. Rising up to over 1100m, walking the mountain trail on the top was a welcome diversion from the high density crowds and living conditions below. For both tourists and particularly for locals it is a welcome break to walk forest trails in crystal clear air and just enjoy the peace, tranquility and the views of both Amalfi and the Bay of Naples all at once.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy 2021:-
(1) Our coach trip taking in Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi and Ravello was spectacular;
(2) Our visit to Vesuvius and its directly affected towns of Pompeii and Herculaneum was quite incredible and very moving.
(3) Our trip to the island of Capri, with AnaCapri’s panoramic views from on-high as well as our boat trip around the island were breathtaking.
As always, the people we met on the tour and our Travel Department guide, Ugo, enriched the whole experience.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Sicily, Southern Italy
We spent seven days visiting the tourist attractions that Sicily, Southern Italy has to offer.
Link to video image montage of our Sicily visit overview:- https://youtu.be/IcSMWs6WeMs
Link to video image montage of our Mount Etna, Sicily visit:- https://youtu.be/SL9U7DYMQMo
Link to video image montage of our Palermo, Sicily visit:- https://youtu.be/CeKo8zIiTfo
Link to video image montage of our Taormina, Sicily visit:- https://youtu.be/5eRBTfn0u0Y
Link to video image montage of our Siracusa, Sicily visit:- https://youtu.be/eZ-k3-6TSB0
Link to video image montage of our Giardini Naxos to Taormina, by sea, in Sicily visit:- https://youtu.be/oX_vLZgm9JI
Don’t be surprised when Sicilians fiercely explain to you with loving eyes, how they are more Sicilian than Italian.
The volcanic lava that covers the eastern part of the island in a 30 - 40 mile radius around Mt Etna, in places touches the waves, and together they form the special beaches of the Sicilian Riviera,
Overall there is a feeling of authenticity still left in this area of Italy, and sometimes you feel like you are back in time.
Sicily, Southern Italy 2022
In considering a trip to Sicily, we decided to take a guided tour with the Travel Department, with the same guide on-hand throughout the entire holiday.
The tour comprised a seven nights stay, the first two nights in Hotel Palazzo Sitano, Palermo. The remaining five nights were spent at a four star Unahotels all-inclusive hotel in Giardini Naxos on a half-board basis. All of our daily coach trips began and ended at our hotel.
After our seven nights in Sicily we flew directly back to Dublin from Palermo Airport.
Sicily’s strategic location at the centre of the Mediterranean has made the island a crossroads of history, a pawn of conquest and empire, and a melting pot for a dozen or more ethnic groups whose warriors or merchants sought its shores.
The myth that Sicily is a dry island without water is wrong. The Arabs taught Sicilians how to manage their water better during their occupation of the island, from 827BC until the 11th century. Following the Muslims, the Normans occupied the island, from 11th century until the 19th century. The two kingdoms of Sicily were invaded and occupied by Giuseppe Garibaldi in the 19th century. The island was a major centre of revolutionary movements: in 1860, as a result of Giuseppe Garibaldi’s revolt, it was liberated from the Bourbons and in the following year was incorporated into the united kingdom of Italy. In 1947 Sicily gained regional autonomy.
Garibaldi became an international figurehead for national independence and republican ideals, and is considered by the twentieth-century historiography and popular culture as Italy's greatest national hero.
Sicily was lucky with its historical invaders. They were in the main non-destructive and to the contrary repaired, improved and enhanced infra-structure, artistic and cultural sites during their tenures.
As a consequence of its historical water conservation practices, Sicily now boasts 42 man made reservoirs and all farming properties have ponds or holding areas for storage of mountain streams and the rains, when they fall.
Mount Etna
You can’t spend a week in Sicily and not attempt to hike some part of Etna.
Etna had been active for some weeks prior to our visit. The lava flows are off limits to tourists for safety reasons. Even when the weather seems to be against you, the Etna volcano is still one of the main Sicilian highlights.
The long drive up to the lower carpark (1900m) is already interesting enough, but the main fun awaits after you park up and attempt to hike one of the sites of eruption.
There’s a cable car that can take you up to 2,500m elevation, followed by a jeep ride up a further 300m - 400m. We chose to take the full tour to the 2900m viewing point with a stop at a few of the lower craters nearby, since the summit was completely clear on the day we visited.
Etna is covered in black volcanic ash. When you climb one of its peaks and take in the views, only then will you experience what power this ancient volcano still has.
Tips
- Bring layers of clothing with you, as it can get cold;
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Don’t forget the bug spray as the peak is covered in lady birds and they in turn attract some stinging predators;
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Bring or hire proper climbing footwear as the lava dust and pebbles are very sharp on human skin.
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Volcanic ash is alien for human eyes and lungs. With some many jeeps in transit up and down and the wind picking up the ash. Eye protection and a mouth covering are highly recommended.
Geology
Etna’s geological characteristics indicate that it has been active since the end of the Neogene Period (i.e., for about the past 2.6 million years). The volcano has had more than one active centre. A number of subsidiary cones have been formed on lateral fissures extending out from the centre and down the sides. The present structure of the mountain is the result of the activity of at least two main eruptive centres.
Villa Romana
Villa Romana del Casale or Sicilian Villa Rumana dû Casali: A mansion of a wealthy Roman family from the 4th century AD.
Located about 5 km from the town of Piazza Armerina or Chiazza. The highlight here is about 3,500 square metres of colourful and unique mosaics, which adorn about 50 rooms.
The mosaics depict images from the mythology and daily life of the owners of a particularly rich agricultural farm. Mosaics featuring wildlife hunting images, scenes from housework and home life, flora and fauna adorn both floors and walls.
Look for the mosaic that proves that the bikini is not really a 20th-century invention.
Visit the island of Stromboli
There are boat tours available during both day and nighttime.
Stromboli is the most remote island among the Aeolian Islands and it is also the most famous of them. It is the most active, continuously erupting volcano in the world
At its centre is a volcano that rises to a height of about 930 metres and has been active for thousands of years without a break. Known as the "Mediterranean Lighthouse" because during the day we always see a trail of smoke rising from it and at night its summit is red and hot.
Climate
Winter (Nov until April with temps 6C - 20C) to summer (May until Oct with temps 20C - 30C) and then back to winter, consequently Sicily experiences no discernible Spring or Autumn seasons.
Geography
The topology of the Sicilian countryside is hills and mountains, with very little flat lands. Farmers are very skilled, as a result, at tractor driving on hilly terrain.
Sicily forms an autonomous island region of Italy. It lies about 100 miles (160 km) northeast of Tunisia (Northern Africa). The island is separated from mainland Italy by the Strait of Messina (2 miles/ 3 km) wide in the north and 10 miles /16 km wide in the South. The capital is Palermo situated on the north-west of the island.
Pylon suspended roads are very common and generally run along the line of the valleys and riverbeds.
In the mountain regions of Sicily between 15th Nov to 15th April it is compulsory to carry tyre chains in a car because of the chance of heavy snows.
Population
The island of Sicily is the largest and one of the most densely populated islands in the Mediterranean Sea, with 5.5 million inhabitants.
With a land mass of 25710 sq kms, circa 30% the area of Ireland. (Ireland is 87000 sq kms)
The island is largely developed along the coastlines following an internal migration from agriculture regions to coastal areas. There is an active government campaign to encourage citizens to repopulate the countryside in order to relieve the ever increasing pressure on its main cities. To try to achieve this, the government provides grant-aid for house purchase in rural districts to city dwellers. Anyone who takes up the grants must then remain living in the rural properties for a minimum of 5 years.
Sicily’s part in the 2nd World War
In 1943 North African bridge head was established, in order to divide the attention and resources of the German military away from northern Europe. After heavy Sicilian bombing the Allies started an offensive via Sicily on 9th July, 1943.
The Allies launched “Operation Husky” before sunrise, a massive amphibious assault on the southern shores of the island. For the following three days it involved more than 3,000 ships landing over 150,000 ground troops, covered by more than 4,000 aircraft.
They moved in two divisions, one up along the east coast and the other up the west coast, to try to-cut off German withdrawal. By 3rd Sept 1943, Sicily was defeated and this started the end of the war and the defeat of the Germans.
Agriculture
Sicily produces Duran wheat, the main ingredient for pasta. As Sicilian wheat is very dry and production is organic, it is in high demand by top chefs and commands a premium price. To strengthen its market positioning, Sicily is fighting for greater disclosure on product packaging in order to emphasise their organic, pesticide-free produce.
Tobacco and coffee and mango and papaya have been introduced recently to diversify their agricultural production. Rice has been grown for the last eight years and is mostly the type used in the making of risotto. In the valleys surrounding Mt Etna, with their very fertile volcanic soil, grow an abundance of fruit and vegetables and are seen as the garden of Sicily.
Cattle and sheep open graze on the hills and mountains.
Sicilian sulphuric acid is no longer commercially viable as these minerals need mining whereas the Americans can produce sulphuric acid at a much cheaper cost. Due to the fact that they can produce it as a bi-produce of their other mining endeavours.
Sicily has recently started to use the bi-product of their red orange juice production, skin and pulp to make cloths.
Palermo
Palermo, the 2,700-year-old capital of Sicily, is full of architecture, history, and culture. Peppered with palaces, highly decorative churches and some amazing architecture, it is worth while getting a local guide in order to fully understand and appreciate the diversity of its history. Alongside its historic environs, Palermo offers a vibrant nightlife, a diversity of restaurants and street food, and an energetic and buzzing atmosphere.
In Palermo, there are three main street markets in the city, with the Beccaria market being the most popular and touristy among them.
In the 1950s a government plan to address the North v South divide in Italy was undertaken. Northern companies came to Sicily and got the grants, built little infrastructure and then left. These buildings are now left derelict all over the outskirts of Palermo.
Rubbish collection and disposal is not working properly as new company who won the refuse contract, have not got enough trucks to meet the refuse collection demand.
Incinerators are seen as a solution but this proposed initiative is receiving enormous local push back.
Catania
Catania is quite a large metropolis and without a doubt the largest city on Sicily East Coast. With its myriad of diverse attractions, it becomes one of the main places to visit in Sicily.
In Catania don’t forget to check out the remnants of the Roman city. This is Catania’s number one attraction.
Piazza Duomo is a vast square featuring several churches and historical buildings. Impressive fountains can be found here too.
Catania is much more industrially developed than Palermo with robotics, motherboards, steel and recycling. Technology industry has been purposely centralised in Catania and it is at a much richer state of development in comparison to its equivalent in Palermo.
In Catania they produce their own solar panels. The company “3Sun” is a good of example of its huge investment in green energy production. It has no become the largest factory in Europe, if not the world, producing photo voltaic panels.
In terms of natural resources, Sicily boasts 3 refineries with over 100 oil wells
Because of this indigenous oil, Sicily was late to the green energy market.
Historically, Mussolini gave away the oil rights to foreign companies in return for political support. Despite this fact, Sicily is still dependant on imported oil for their oil fired electricity generation. There has been a move towards renewable wind and solar in recent years but this has still not gained the critical mass needed to support the islands total electricity appetite.
Siracusa
Siracusa, or “Syracuse” in English, is a city rich in ancient Roman and Greek history. Archimedes, the Greek mathematician, physicist, astronomer was born here. The Siracusa region is known for the production of lemons, potatoes & strawberries.
When walking towards the city centre is the Temple of Apollo, or rather its remnants. The ancient Greek temple dating from the 6th century BC is one of the oldest in Sicily.
Just before you reach the temple, you’ll cross over a bridge, which marks the start of Siracusa Old Town called “Ortigia”. Ortigia is an island and the old part of Siracusa is located there. At the end of the small island you can find Castello Maniace, a castle and a fortress all in one.
The centre square is called Piazza del Duomo. It’s here where you can find the magnificent Cathedral of Syracuse from the 7th century, with the long Italian name of Cattedrale metropolitana della Natività di Maria Santissima.
In our opinion, the old town of Siracusa is one of the lesser promoted beauty spots in Sicily.
Taormina
Taormina is one of the most beautiful and enchanting towns there is in Sicily, perched on a beautiful hillside. Although the town is very touristy, it is impossible not to get excited about the charm and uniqueness of the place.
It is enough to just wander in it and enjoy the colourful houses and the atmosphere that is around small shops on all sides and small and charming cafes.
In Taormina, you will not want to miss the ancient Greek theatre, an impressive historical and archaeological structure which also, because of its height, provides an amazing panoramic view.
Not only can you explore wonderful historical monuments such as the ancient Greek Theatre and visit the public gardens, you can also see a lively town or go to the beach via a cable car.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Sicily, Southern Italy 2022:-
(1) Our visit to Mount Etna, was the highlight of our entire trip.
(2) Our second choice would be visiting the hill top town of Taormina.
(3) Our third would be our visit to Catania’s number one attraction: Piazza Duomo.
As always, the people we met on the tour and our Travel Department guide, Francesca and driver Nino, enriched the whole experience.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Our observations and tips from our trips to the island of Sicily
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The only thing predictable about Sicily is the friendliness of its citizens and the boldness of its motorcycle and car drivers.
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Keep a bottle of water handy during your trips as there can be a reasonable degree of walking and climbing involved.
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The region is blessed with a very good water irrigation systems fed from stored water, allied to this, it has volcanic fertile soils.
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When dining out, order the ‘vino della casa’ (house wine) instead of a bottle. It usually comes served by the litre in a lovely carafe.
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Italians don’t really do breakfast, they usually have a cornetto (croissant) and an espresso to start their day. Their real food comes at lunchtime. Even in hotels, don’t expect anything more than a ‘continental breakfast’. Italians eat late dinners between 08:00 - 11:00pm.
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Italy doesn’t have much of a tipping culture but restaurants will usually add a service charge to your bill.
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Try to buy tickets online, prior to your trip, they work out much cheaper.
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Cash is king here. Make sure you carry enough cash with you each day to pay for incidentals like take away pizza or gelato. Even though things are changing, more often than not the smaller establishments will only accept cash.
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Ice-cream (Gelato) is on sale everywhere. Enjoying an authentic creamy gelato is one of the real pleasures when in Italy. Not all Gelatos are equal, when you find a good one, stick to it.
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While you don’t need to be fluent in Italian, knowing a few choice words and phrases will help you in situations outside of your hotel or visiting museums. Sicilians aren’t known for their mastery of the English language.
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Italians invented the coffee culture along with the macchiatto, espresso, and cappuccino. However, there are no ‘cafes’ in Sicily, instead there are ‘bars’ and they are pretty much everywhere. When ordering coffee be sure to specify the type you want.
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Sicilians see milk as something you should only have at breakfast. Sicilians consider it a massive faux pas to order a cappuccino or (caffè) latte with or after lunch or dinner.
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Public toilets in Sicily are pretty dismal. They don’t have toilet seats and you need to pay 50 cents to use a toilet. Be sure to bring your own tissues and wipes.
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Standing at the bar is cheaper, be prepared to pay a higher price to sit at a table.
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Pack comfortable shoes (flip flops, sandals and sneakers), light scarves and hats (for sun protection) and UV sunglasses. Opt for lighter and brighter clothing. Shorts are acceptable in most restaurants. However, when visiting churches, the rule is simple: cover knees and shoulders or you’ll be refused entry.
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Train transport remains in public ownership throughout Sicily. During peak times and on weekends the trains can be extremely busy and crowded. Train travel can be slow and cumbersome in Sicily.
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You are advised to buy bottled mineral water: frizzante (sparkling) or naturale (still).
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When it comes to mosquitoes, the island of Sicily is comparable to other Mediterranean regions, so take your usual precautions.
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In most accommodations in Sicily, it is preferred that you do not throw toilet paper into the toilet. You should use the bin supplied instead.
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Generally world wide you should not expect to eat great food in the historical centres, remember that you’re paying for the view and not high-quality food. Sicily is an exception to this rule with excellent food to be found throughout.
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Italy is no stranger to pickpockets who operate all over the country. They tend to stay around monuments, archaeological sites and popular bus routes. Be wary if anyone tries to distract you for any reason, be suspicious, especially if they are adamantly trying to get your attention.
Travel Department tour itinerary, days 1 - 3
Travel Department tour itinerary, days 4 - 8
Sardinia 2022, Italy
Italy - (AL 1) A 14 day laid-back trip to the Italian island of Sardinia in the Mediterranean Sea.
A beach holiday chilling in Alghero, Sardinia, an Italian Island paradise in the central Mediterranean.
Spent a very low activity two weeks break in Alghero, Sardinia.
If you are more of an activity style holiday maker then check out our other Sardinian holiday blog.
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Laid-Back Sardinia Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/-j5K__f6LJs
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus Laid-Back Sardinia 2023 Video:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/JGlTzZGqE_4
There are three possible holiday types that a visitor can have in Sardinia.
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the activity holiday, visiting all of the tourist destinations that the island has to offer ;
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The laid-back, in-active holiday type of Sleep, Food, Sun & Entertainment ;
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A holiday that is a mixture of both holiday options (1) and (2), above.
Sardinia, Italy 2022
As this is a blog from the perspective of a type (2) holiday above, possibly the beach walk and the walk to the old town will be the height of your ambition, especially if you are based in Alghero, as we were.
A walk along the promenade at either sunrise or sunset will possibly be the height of your ambition. For those more adventurous, then the walk along the beaches to Fertilia, followed by a bus trip (€1) back to Alghero, that will probably suffice as enough over-exertion for the entire week.
Our latest observations from our recent trip to Sardinia, Italy
The beach even with a breeze can still be inflexibly hot in direct sun. We advise buying two sun brolleys (Umbrellas) in a supermarket for €9 each and a €2 plastic hole borer. The other alternative is to pay €20 a day for two sun beds and a fixed sun brolley.
If you can put up with lying on towels on the soft beach sand, then you can move your shade to suit the changing sun direction or alternately move your sun brolleys throughout the day. Over a one week holiday you save €120 or twice that on a two week holiday.
Once the temperatures rise into the mid 20’s degrees on European beaches you have to wear shoes or stick to the boardwalks. This is due to the fact that their beaches have a very high solar heat absorption structure. Temperatures in the Caribbean can be in the mid 30’s degrees and you will not have to wear shoes on any of its white Sandy beaches, as their sand does not hold the solar heat. This is due to their extreme whiteness because they are composed of broken down white shell in the main, and as such, they have very high solar heat reflectivity.
There are realistically 5 modes of transport during your holiday stay (1) Walk everywhere. Good for your health and the cheapest option;
(2) hire bikes @ €10 a day. Safe on cycle paths but can be dangerous elsewhere; (3) hire a car. The most expensive option due to vehicle shortages globally; (4) hire an electric scooter. Cheap at €1 signup and 22cents per minute thereafter. Just scan you debit or credit card to go and scan again when done. You can leave the GPS located scooters any where when you are done, except in excluded zones; (5) Public transport. Really cheap but dependable only time wise on their limited destination schedule.
You are advised to bring Sun creams with you. We have found it difficult to replicate the sun protection factor, we are used to at home, in the products available locally.
An unexpected upshot of COVID is that there are no book swops available in hotels etc. it is also very hard to find books in English in the local book shops. So, bring ample reading material with you for the duration of your vacation.
We recommend you travel with only carry on luggage on your flight to Sardinia, for two reasons: (1) you will need way less cloths for even a two week vacation than you would normally. Sardinian nightlife is ultra casual in attire; (2) Due to COVID flights are being cancelled and there is a real problem developing with stowed luggage and baggage handling. So pack smart and light and have your luggage with you at all times ( a 10 Kilo case on wheels and a back pack that fits under the seat in front of you on the plane).
The town Lido (beach), Spiaggia san Giovanni is a nice beach but prone to sea grass accumulation along the shoreline. In our opinion the Spiaggio Di Maria Pia beach is far superior due to its pristine clear waters, soft white sand beach and very gradual depth gradiant as you enter the water. The waters are warm if the wind is any direction other than from the north. It is extremely safe with lifeguard stations every 200 metres or so along the length of the beach. And of course, the jewel in the crown on Maria Pia beach is the “La Palafitta” beach restaurant.
Sardinia does not produce enough wine to support export. That said, they have some fantastic wines, white “BLU”, available at very reasonable prices. You will not find these wins in the rest of Europe, so you will have to ship a crate home to continue your wonderful Sardinian wine experience at home.
When you move away from the beach front properties, the apartment blocks get higher and more dense. It can be loud, dirty and seems to be bursting at the seams with the mass of people living in high density apartments and those visiting this very popular holiday region. Dog ownership is very high amongst Italian apartment visitors in particular. As there is no discernible policy in place to penalise dog owners who allow their dogs to foul footpaths at will, a large percentage of dog owners do not clean up after their dogs. Tread warily particularly at night.
Italian food in restaurants is fantastic. With fish, paste, pizza dishes the main offerings. While in Alghero, if you get overdosed on Italian fair try the Bohan sushi Japanese restaurant just off the marina carpark or Yumi for a break with great taste and really good value.
Taxi’s to and from the airport are priced at €25 to €35 each way to Alghero. Buses on the other hand, to and from airport are €1 each way if ticket bought at machine in airport. If bought on the bus the fare is €1.50 each way. The buses run from 0530 until 2300 hours on the hour in each direction, with a journey time of 30 minutes. From Alghero to the airport pick up the bus at any of the bus stops on Via don Minzoni.
Restaurants on Saturday and Sunday are very busy because locals swell the holiday maker numbers. Unless you choose to eat your main meal in the afternoon, you will need a booking. To get a meal in any of the restaurants for the other 5 nights of the week are is not an issue. Locals like weekend meals out, and they bring an embarrassment of riches for all the local restaurants. In fairness, these restaurants are obliged to accommodate the locals first, given that the tourist season is short and the locals are the lifeblood of these establishments in the off tourist season.
Supermarkets on Saturday and Sunday are very busy also because yet again locals swell the holiday maker numbers. So if you want fresh bread milk etc, get up early and beat the inevitable rush or suffer the shortages of staple foods that arise in the late morning.
The majority of apartments and hotels provide television in their rooms with an Italian satellite service. The service offers hundreds of Italian speaking stations only. If you wish to keep in contact with English speaking news stations etc., you will have to bring along with you, your own means of accessing these stations.
The island of Sardinia
We have visited Sardinia many times over the last 10 year period. Sardinia is a large Italian island in the Mediterranean Sea. It has nearly 2,000km of coastline, sandy beaches and a mountainous interior crossed with great hiking trails. The climate is temperate Mediterranean and ideal for open air trips and excursions as it is surrounded by sea with a dark blue to turquoise palette of colours. With its tropical sea and transparent water it is both a perfect sailing and diving location.
Sardinia is bounded to the West by the Alboran Sea which has the greatest effect from the Atlantic Ocean current water exchange. To the East its seas are influenced by the waters from the Balearic Islands to Sicily. The Adriatic and the Eastern Mediterranean are the two other areas of influence on Sardinia’s North and South coasts. Sardinia is right in the middle of the central Mediterranean, in a position that is widely considered conducive to creating a synthesis of the marine biological characteristics of all these surrounding sea areas. Compared with other Mediterranean locations, the sea that surrounds Sardinia is relatively stable. Surface water temperatures fluctuate consistently from 12 to 14 degrees Celsius in February and 23 to 25 degrees Celsius in August.
Sense of Sardinia
The official currency of Sardinia is the Euro. During our various trips we have driven all around the island. If you get any opportunities during your travels in Sardinia to visit the old walled town of Alghero, then do so, it is a very worthwhile experience. Head north-west from the centre of Alghero for just a few kilometres, and you'll discover Maria Pia beach (Spiaggia di Maria Pia).
Our general experience of the Sardinian people was that they are extremely friendly. They are non formal and particularly in the countryside, they are very warm and welcoming.
Recommendations for Sardinia
There is no language barrier, if you speak only English. All the younger generation and the majority of older people can converse quite happily in English. So it lends itself to undertaking a trips that can be self guided.
In each of the locations around Sardinia we visited the local tourist trails and highlights on offer. We also visited some of the local communities market events and these left us with a genuine sense of Sardinian life. In Sardinia, the tourist season extends from April to November. The months of June and July are very busy tourist months and high temperatures. August is both hot and extremely busy with tourists from the Italian mainland making up the bulk of the tourists.
There are a lot of things to do in Sardinia depending on your preference:-
1 City visits to Cagliari, Olbia, Arzachena or Alghero;
2 Choose from any of the offshore boats tours on offer;
3 Cycling is a very popular method of touring various attractions;
4 Italians love their food, so visit the local food market to soak up the atmosphere;
5 Visit any of the very well preserved archaeological sites on offer;
6 Join in any of the many hill walks on offer;
7 Do a winery and wine tasting tour;
8 Visit any of the museums and nature parks;
9 There are a variety of sandy and rocky beach types to choose from.
All of the visits, tours, cruises and trips are available as both half day and full day experiences.
There is a wide variety of hotel accommodation available to suit all holiday budgets. If you like excellent Italian food and hospitality, then look no further, Sardinia has it all.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Sardinia:-
(1) Our visit to Alghero was the highlight of our entire Sardinian trip.
(2) Our second choice would be a visit to any of the beach front restaurants and experience the Italian joy of people watching.
(3) Our third choice would be the joy to be had just strolling in the old walled town of Alghero.
As July is seen as high season, the average cost per couple / per week in a self service apartment is €1000.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone”
Naples flotilla sailing
We spent nine days visiting the many tourist attractions that the Bay of Naples, Italy has to offer.
Link to a (Short) video montage of a Sailing Flotilla around the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast visit (Overview):-
To view the video select:- https://www.instagram.com/tv/Cg1bFiEA2ku/?igshid=YmMyMTA2M2Y=
Link to a (Full) video montage of a Sailing Flotilla around the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast visit:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/rcEAhx3Kqrw
A one week flotilla sailing in the Bay of Naples
As this was the first ever sailing holiday, for two of our crew, it was both challenging, scary an exhilarating experience all wrapped into one.
We went with a Sunsail (Sail Italia) flotilla and sailed around the Bay of Naples, Italy for a week. The climate was typical mediterranean for July, with daily temperatures over 30 degree celsius and very light winds - not ideal for sailing. As it was high season along the Mediterranean, with most Europeans taking the month of August off as their annual vacation, it was busy in the various resorts and on the high seas.
A flotilla sailing holiday may not be everyone’s cup of tea, however, there is an enormous sense of freedom, accomplishment and enjoyment having done one, and a good opportunity to meet interesting people. This sailing holiday was our fifth time to put our toes in the water at sailing.
A sailing trip, such as this, would involve high levels of activity, in our opinion, particularly when you are crewing the boat yourself. If you use a marine skill level scale of “1 - 5” for sailing, we would regard The Bay of Naples flotilla sailing as a level “two” and this level only increases to a level “three” if you choose to do the free time lone boat sailing away from the flotilla.
Sailing in the Bay of Naples is relatively safe as there is little or no tide difference and you can generally time your watch by the wind. It blows between 13.00 and 17.00 each afternoon, otherwise it is relatively benign. On this particular occasion, we were unlucky with the amount of motor transiting we had to do as the winds only blew a 10 to 15 knots from the west in the mid-to-late afternoon, but this suited our two friends that are new to sailing.
We moved up a notch in experience when we did flotilla sailing in more exposed sea conditions in other locations, such as around Mallorca and in the Caribbean. As with every sport, you build up your competency and confidence over time, and you are never too late to start.
Our voyage started on the island of Procida and took in the neighbouring island of Ischia and Capri along with the coast of Sorrento and Amalfi.
The cost of hiring a yacht for a sailing holiday needs to be considered on a per passenger basis. The Oceanis 45ft boat that we hired had accommodation for 10 people but as there were only four of us on board, we had ample space.
A sense of the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast
The Bay of Naples and the Amalfi coast are incredible regions of Italy to visit and with so many amazing things to see and do, you’ll be spoilt for choice once you arrive. There are lots of things to do across this whole region. It doesn’t matter if you’re visiting for a quick stopover, a long weekend or a few weeks.
Capri is a beautiful island that lies to the south of the Bay of Naples, just a few kilometres from the end of the Sorrento peninsula. Although it is a small island of roughly 4 by 2 miles, it still has a lot to offer any visitor.
Naples historically was the largest, most picturesque, highly sought after region in Southern Italy by the Romans. It is packed with countless historical landmarks, museums and churches. It can be loud, dirty and seems to be bursting at the seams with the mass of people living in high density apartments and those visiting this very popular holiday region.
We visited the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy in Sept 2022 for a seven day flotIlla sailing vacation. The climate was very warm and sunny and ideal for sun bathing from the bow, once the yacht was underway in sea breeze.
In considering a trip to the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, we decided to take a flotilla sailing food and wine experience with the SunSail (Sail Italia) with the same lead boat crew on-hand throughout the entire holiday.
The tour comprised a seven day yacht hire of a 45ft Oceanis boat. We sailed and slept on board our boat for the entire week, with a one night stay in the “Sweet Sleep hotel” either end of our weeks vacation in the city centre of Naples, near the Central Station.
After our nine nights enjoying all that the Bay of Naples has to offer we flew directly back to Dublin from Napoli Airport.
The official currency of the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast is the Euro.
If you get an opportunity during your travels to the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast do the archaeological tours of ancient Rome, we thoroughly enjoyed our visits to Naples, Procida Port, Ischia (Forio), Sorrento, Amalfi, Capri, Porto di Ischia, Procida Port and finally back to Naples.
A typical daily flotilla yachting timetable
0700 bells Visit local bakery for coffee & nibbles
0800 bells Rise & Shine
0900 bells Lead crew navigation meeting
0945 bells Yacht crew decides passage plan
1000 bells Cast off & get underway
Motor or Sail (if enough wind)
1300 bells Anchor for swim & lunch
Motor or Sail (if enough wind)
1730 bells Come along side in next destination port
1915 bells Group wine & dinner experience
1130 bells Return to yacht for sleep
Repeat
Naples food and wine itinerary
Day 1:- Friday 22nd July 2022. We caught the early flight from Dublin to Naples, arriving 11.00am local time. We spent the day taking in the tourist attractions that Naples has to offer on shore.
Day 2 :- Saturday 23rd July 2022. We took the passenger ferry from Naples port out to the island of Procida, a one hour passage, to join the Flotilla at Procida port. We spent the rest of the day familiarising ourselves with the yacht. That evening we attended the welcoming flotilla startup dinner in a local restaurant.
Day 3:- Sunday 24th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we did our first transit (motoring, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind, (light winds from West and South West) on our boat called “Filomeana”, a 45 Oceanis Monohull sailing yacht. The transit took us from Procida port to Forio port on the island of Ischia. Along the way we anchored for a snorkelling experience and had our first lunch onboard. That evening we attended the a group dinner in a local restaurant, with rabbit as the house speciality.
Day 4:- Monday 25th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we motored, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind (light winds from East and South East). Along the way we anchored for a snorkelling experience and had our first lunch onboard. That evening we attended the a group dinner in a local restaurant.
Day5:- Tuesday 26th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we motored, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind (light winds from West), from Sorrento to Amalfi. We attended a group flotilla dinner in a local restaurant. We managed to get sailing for small stretches of the passage.
Day6:- Wednesday 27th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we motored, due to the lack of sufficient sailing wind (light winds from West), from Amalfi to an anchorage in southern Capri. Following our free days sailing we ate dinner onboard and then visited (via a group tender) Capri town.
Day7:- Thursday 28th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we sailed in average strength winds (wind from the West), from Capri to Ischia port on the North East of Ischia Island. We attended a group flotilla dinner in a local restaurant.
Day8:- Friday 29th July 2022. Following our morning navigation briefing with the lead crew, we sailed in average strength winds (wind from the West), from Ischia port to Procida port on the North East of Procida Island. For the first time we deployed the boat’s RIB tender and explored the cave structures within the “Golfo Di Genito”. That evening we attended a group flotilla dinner in a local restaurant, where anchovies are the speciality.
Day9:- Saturday 30th July 2022. Following our final nights sleep on the boat we toured the island of Procida. We caught the late afternoon ferry back to Naples, where we rested in our air conditioned hotel until our final farewell dinner with our entire crew of four.
Day10:- Sunday 31th July 2022. We taxied to Naples airport and caught our return flight back to Dublin.
The Bay of Naples
The region is now one of the less wealthy regions in Italy, however, historically it was the chief city of southern Italy. After the formation of the Italian Republic, the historic wealth of Naples was used to fund the industrial expansion of northern Italy. Despite loosing its glamour and status to the north, its inherent charm, amazing scenery and historical attractions, wonderful food and its splendid weather have transformed it into the classic modern tourist destination, that we know today.
Our general experience of the people from Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast was that they are extremely informal, friendly and very warm and welcoming. There is a natural affinity between the Irish and the Italians, that is rarely paralleled anywhere else in the world. They work very hard to attract tourists to the south of the country, which is very different to the more established areas in the north and centre. Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast has a lot to offer.
Recommendations for the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy.
There is a language barrier, if you speak only English. So it lends itself to undertaking a trip using guided tours, however, most of the younger generation speak good English.
In each of the eight locations, we visited the local tourist trails and highlights on offer. We also visited some of the local hostelries and these left us with a genuine sense of the excellence of the Southern Italian welcome for tourists. In Italy they drive on the right hand side of the road, if you normally use left hand side of the road driving, you should be ultra careful. With the exception of main roads, the countryside roads can become unexpectedly very narrow. Driving in Southern Italy is not for the faint hearted.
The weekend boating escape from the heated stuffiness of high rise living in the city takes place each Saturday and Sunday.
For both tourists and particularly for locals it is a welcome break to sail or motor on the crystal clear waters of the bay and just enjoy the peace, tranquility and the views of both the Amalfi coastline and the Bay of Naples, with its variety of small welcoming traditional islands.
Our must see recommendation for a sailing trip to the Bay of Naples & Amalfi Coast, Southern Italy 2022:-
(1) Our entire sailing trip taking in Sorrento, Positano, Amalfi, Capri, Ischia and Procida, was all spectacular;
(2) The actual excitement and freedom of sailing itself, particularly in warm waters with the sun shining in all its splendour, is truly fantastic;
(3) Our third choice would be the availability of numerous excellent and very different ports and beaches;
(4) Our group meals and the company and conversations with the other 10 yacht crews in the flotilla.
(5) Our trip to the island of Capri, with panoramic views of both Capri town and AnaCapri from our boat at anchor were breathtaking.
As always, the people we met on the tour and our Sail Italia lead boat crew Andre, Luca and Anna, enriched the whole experience.
The best time to visit:
Spring ( Mar - May): Beautiful weather and fewer crowds, Avoid Easter and National holidays, Apr 25th and May 1st, respectively.
Summer (Jun - Aug): Peak season, crowded and hottest time of the year.
Autumn (Sept - Nov): Another great time to visit. The weather is mild, but many businesses start to close for the season in November.
Winter (Dec - Feb): It is cold and wet, with choppy seas. Businesses are closed and there are limited ferry services.
Naples
The historic wealth of Naples was used to fund the industrial expansion of northern Italy. As a consequence it has lost its status and glamour while still offering a fascinating collection of museums, churches and architecture. The best frescoes and mosaics of Pompeii and Herculaneum ended up in the Naples Archaeological Museum. Take time to explore Naples (watch out for the vespas). This living medieval city is its own best attraction. This pulse of Italy with its captivating Italian accent, Italian food, history and superb weather for two thirds of the year, has to be seen to be believed, (See Naples and die).
Sorrento
Sorrento is well positioned as both a base to stay while visiting the area and as a sight seeing destination itself, just an hour south of Naples. It is built on a cliff between the mountains and the Mediterranean sea. At peak season, tourists can match in size the population of Sorrento at 20,000 people. It can both be used as a gateway to Capri by ferry from its port and as a starting point for your coach journey of the Amalfi coast. Sorrento features an unspoilt old quarter, a spectacular cliff side setting and a lively main shopping street. Everyone seems to speak good English and it is peppered with lemon and olive groves throughout the town.
Amalfi Coast
The Amalfi coast offers one of the world’s great bus rides, or in our case, fantastic coastal scenery from our casual sail the length of its coastline. The coastal journey from Sorrento to Salerno will afford the passenger ample opportunities for Instagram photo classic moments. You cannot but be left with a deep respect for those engineers and builders who build it in the first instance and even more respect for the bus drivers who routinely drive this stretch of road. All the while, the Mediterranean sparkles a mere 500m drop below you from the coastal road.
The Amalfi coast towns are generally pretty but bursting with tourists. They are generally overpriced and congested and all the small towns along the way are a very long hike upwards from tiny beaches. So sit back in the bus and enjoy the ride.
If you take in this fabulous coastline from a seaward vantage point as we did on this occasion, we feel, you will not be disappointed.
Capri
Capri is a beautiful island that lies in the south if the Naples Bay. It is build on top of a block of limestone rocks. It is known for its crystal clear turquoise waters.
It does attract big crowds. As with all tourist hotspots, it can be expensive to eat there, should you choose to do so. Capri was initially made famous by the roman emperors Tiberius and Augustus using it as their hide away holiday vacation spot. But, today it is colonised during day time hours by tourists looking to see the rich and famous. Prices are commensurate with Milan and Rome haute couture districts. Via Camerelle leads to a path of shops displaying current fashion at its finest, with dreamy window displays and deluxe price tags.
Piazzetta square, a lively shopping hub and a good location to take in the sights, people watch and have a coffee. It can be reached by the funicular from the sea level Marina Grande. Marina Grande is the key transportation hub for visiting the whole island. Its beach is free also.
Its chief attractions are an all island boat tip, the Blue Grotto and its Cable Chair lift from Anacapri to the summit on Monte Solaro. Not recommended for anyone scared of heights. The round trip takes 40 minutes, with amazing views of Naples Bay and Sorrento from the summit. Also in AnaCapri visit Axel Munthe’s Villa San Michele with its fabulous gardens overlooking Ischia Island, he spent his whole life creating them.
If you are not on a sailing trip, Capri can be reached by ferry with port connections from Naples and Sorrento.
It is especially popular among celebrities and honeymooners.
When planning a visit to one of the most popular regions in southern Italy, there are a few tips and suggestions that we recommend.
Our observations and tips from our trips to the Bay of Naples & the Amalfi Coast
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The only thing predictable about the Bay of Naples and the Amalfi Coastline is the friendliness of its shopkeepers and the boldness of its motorcycle and car drivers.
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Berthing fees in marinas during August for a 45ft mono hull sailing boat range from €150 to €260 per overnight along-side stay. The standard of berthing facilities, in the various marinas we tied-up alongside, varied hugely despite the large nightly fees. They calculate the berthing fees based on the length and width of the boat and the number of people on board.
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Standard nautical rules and courtesy do not always apply when sailing in Italian waters. Be prepared for the unexpected at all times, whilst underway.
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The mainland region is blessed with a very good groundwater system allied to this it has volcanic fertile soil, making it one of the garden food production areas for Italy, for particularly: Oranges, Lemons, Kiwi, Olives, Nuts, Grapes, Tomatoes. Tip: If you see the nets covering the top of the orchards then they are protecting the cirrus fruits for the wind and the sun. Alternately, if the nets are on the ground, they are positioned for Olive harvesting.
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Keep a bottle of water handy during your trips as there can be a reasonable degree of walking and climbing involved.
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There is only one main roadway in and out of Piano Di Sorrento. At peak times there can be long traffic delays on this road. Large tour buses, although skilfully driven, can lead to delays and congestion, particularly on the very many hairpin bend stretches.
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When dining out, order the ‘vino della casa’ (house wine) instead of a bottle. It usually comes served by the litre in a lovely carafe.
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Italians don’t really do breakfast, they usually have a cornetto (croissant) and an espresso to start their day. Their real food comes at lunchtime. Even in hotels, don’t expect anything more than a ‘continental breakfast’. Italians eat late dinners between 08:00 - 11:00pm.
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Italy doesn’t have much of a tipping culture but restaurants will usually add a service charge to your bill.
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Museums and restaurants are open throughout the week, albeit Monday is their rest-day, therefore most municipal attractions remain closed. Keep Mondays for shopping and visiting parks.
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On the first Sunday of each month, numerous museums and archaeological sites are open to the public for free. This isn’t just restricted to Naples, it applies to all regions in Italy.
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Try to buy tickets online, prior to your trip, they work out much cheaper.
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Cash is king here. Make sure you carry enough cash with you each day to pay for incidentals like take away pizza or gelato. Even though things are changing, more often than not the smaller establishments will only accept cash.
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With every transaction you make, no matter how small the purchase, you’ll be given a small receipt (scontrino or ricevuta in Italian). You might feel inclined to leave it on the counter or throw it straight in the bin. Italy has what is known as the Guardia di Finanza which is basically the finance police. You’ll see them dressed in smart grey suits with a bright yellow strip down their suit leg. You will need the receipts to prove you have paid your tax.
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Ice-cream (Gelato) is on sale everywhere. Enjoying an authentic creamy gelato is one of the real pleasures when in Italy. Not all Gelatos are equal, when you find a good one, stick to it.
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While you don’t need to be fluent in Italian, knowing a few choice words and phrases will help you in situations outside of your hotel or visiting museums. Italians aren’t known for their mastery of the English language.
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Italians invented the coffee culture along with the macchiatto, espresso, and cappuccino. However, there are no ‘cafes’ in Italy, instead there are ‘bars’ and they are pretty much everywhere. When ordering coffee be sure to specify the type you want.
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Italians see milk as something you should only have at breakfast. Italians consider it a massive faux pas to order a cappuccino or (caffè) latte with or after lunch or dinner.
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Public toilets in Italy are pretty dismal. They don’t have toilet seats and you need to pay 50 cents to use a toilet. Be sure to bring your own tissues and wipes.
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Standing at the bar is cheaper, be prepared to pay a higher price to sit at a table.
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Pack comfortable shoes (flip flops, sandals and sneakers), light scarves and hats (for sun protection) and UV sunglasses. Opt for lighter and brighter clothing. Shorts are acceptable in most restaurants. However, when visiting churches, the rule is simple: cover knees and shoulders or you’ll be refused entry.
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Train travel around the Bay of Naples is easy and inexpensive. During peak times and on weekends the trains can be extremely busy and crowded.
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You can drink local spring water. Ancient Romans kept the Eternal City well-hydrated providing the best drinking water to its citizen via its aqueducts. Public ‘nasoni’ fountains scattered throughout the city are absolutely safe to drink, but you might prefer to buy bottled mineral water: frizzante (sparkling) or naturale (still).
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When it comes to mosquitoes, the Bay of Naples is comparable to other Mediterranean regions, so take your usual precautions.
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In most accommodations in Naples and Capri, it is preferred that you do not throw toilet paper into the toilet. You should use the bin supplied instead.
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Be wary of taxi driver potential rip offs. A popular one is to only given you back change of a €20 despite the fact that you paid them €50.
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Do not expect to eat great food in the historical centres, remember that you’re paying for the view and not high-quality food.
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Italy is no stranger to pickpockets who operate all over the country. They tend to stay around monuments, archaeological sites and popular bus routes. Be wary if anyone tries to distract you for any reason, be suspicious, especially if they are adamantly trying to get your attention.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone
There are two types of boat hire, bareboat and flotilla sailing. A professional skipper hire is additionally available for either type of boat hire.
Bareboat charter is yacht charter holiday without a hired skipper, so one or more of the charter guests will be sailing the boat themselves. Sailboat charter on a bareboat yacht either requires a valid licence or proof of sufficient sailing experience. In some countries a second member of the charter needs to have sailing experience, too. Since there is no crew, the charterers of the yacht will also do any required provisioning, cooking, planning of itineraries etc
Flotillas are available for varying skill levels from Easy to Advanced level. Conditions such as wind, tide, distances and mooring methods determine the experience required to sail in each area. You can be as independent as you like, but your Lead Boat Crew are always nearby in case you need any assistance during your trip. They will also recommend the best anchorages, harbours, restaurants and places to visit.
A possible option for sailors who don’t have too much experience would be a combination of skippered and bareboat charter. They could hire a skipper to sail the yacht for the first few days and gradually take over until they feel confident to navigate the boat alone. Another possibility would be a flotilla charter with a lead boat and a guide that gives assistance.
General sailing boat tips:-
- No matter how big the boat you hire, space is still at a minimum onboard a boat;
- When food and drink provisioning for a boat trip, try to resist the temptation to over provision on your first day shopping;
- The one provision to spend the higher price on is your water provision. A greater chance that your water will taste nice;
- Not everyone gets sick on a boat trip. For those who do, try getting a combination or all of:- wearing a sailing bracelet;
wear a seasickness patch; take medication such as Dramamine or Bonine; eat lots of ginger biscuits;
- Boats do not have a ton of storage space so using soft-sided luggage, like a duffel bag or a soft backpack is recommended;
- Bring along ample cloths pegs for hanging out your cloths to dry;
- Cut back on bringing grooming equipment, but bring a lot more shorts, tee-shirts and underwear;
- Invest in a pair of lightweight waterproof footwear, preferably shoes that float, crocs fit the bill perfectly;
- Attach something recognisable onto your dinghy to make it stand out to you and others amidst a bunch of dinghies that all look the same in the dark;
- Do a thorougher check of all your boat equipment before you leave the initial base port to make sure everything is ship shape and Bristol fashion
Tuscany, Northern Italy
We spent seven days visiting the tourist attractions that Tuscany, Northern Italy has to offer.
Link to video image montage of our Tuscany, Florence visit:-
Link to video image montage of our Tuscany, Pisa visit:-
Link to video image montage of our Tuscany, Siena visit:-
Link to video image montage of our Tuscany, Lucca visit:-
Link to video image montage of our Tuscany, Montecatini-Alto visit:-
Link to video image montage of our Tuscany, San Gimignano visit:-
Link to video image montage of our HighLights of Tuscany visit:-
Link to a video and still image montage of our Sept 2024 Boat Tour in Italy:-
TBL
Tuscany, Northern Italy 2023
In considering a trip to Tuscany, we decided to take a guided tour with the Travel Department, with the same guide on-hand throughout the entire holiday.
The tour comprised a seven nights stay in a four star hotel in Montecatini-Terme (Monsummano Terme) on a half-board basis. All of our daily coach trips began and ended at our hotel.
While staying in central Tuscany, if you get a free day consider a trip to Cinque Terre on the north west coast (ie the Italian Riviera), in our opinion, you will not be disappointed.
After our seven nights at the Grand Hotel Plaza we flew directly back to Dublin from Bologna Airport.
Montecatini-Terme
We visited the Tuscan region of Northern Italy during April 2023. We based ourselves centrally in the small town of Montecatini-Terme (Monsummano Terme).
Staying in the Grand Hotel Plaza in Montecatini-Terme, an old hotel, centrally positioned in the town and close to shops, restaurants and the central train station. This town is known for the art nouveau Parco Delle Terme spa complex. Also, works by Joan Miro and Claes Oldenburg hang in the local art gallery. One gets a sense that the town is past its hay-day. Back in the 1940-1960, it was a very much frequented town due to the local spas, with related health benefits. Nevertheless a nice base from which to tour Tuscany.
Access to the funicular train up to the hilltop village of Montecatini Alto, is via the station on the north east edge of the park. This small village offers panoramic views and photo opportunities from its elevate positioning. This village is also known for its Torre dell’Orologio, a medieval clock tower, plus the Romanesque church of Santa Maria a Ripa.
Montecatini Terme is well connected by train to Pisa, Florence, Lucca, Viareggio, La Spezia (the start of the cinque Terre) and Rome. Montecatini Terme has two train stations, Montecatini Terme – Monsummano and Montecatini Centro.
Remember that you must validate your ticket before boarding the train. You can do this by inserting your ticket into one of the green and red machines on the platform or in the station. Failure to validate your ticket could result in a fine.
Florence
The old town centre of Florence is super walkable and relatively small as far as cities go.
Piazza del Duomo – which translates to “Cathedral Square” in English – isn’t only one of the most frequented sites in Florence, it’s also one of the most visited places in Europe. This magnificent square consists of several different buildings, including the Florence Cathedral with Brunelleschi’s Dome (affectionately known as “The Duomo”), Giotto’s Campanile (Bell Tower).
Piazza Santa Croce and the Santa Croce Basilica are a little less known, however, its cafes and street performers make the square an excellent place to sit down, relax, and absorb a more earthy charm and Florence vibe. In June each year, the square is converted to an open air arena for the Calcio Storico games. Local teams play a rough, no rules, football game dressed in medieval costume. It earns huge local interest, but, it is definitely not for the faint hearted.
Things to do in Florence
You can pay to climb the Dome of the Cathedral, and pay to climb Campanile di Giotto, the tower next to the Duomo.
Florence is full of classic souvenir shops, but you can also find many gems selling unique crafts and all manor of leather goods. Eating gelato is one of the best things to do in Florence!.
You could hike up to Piazza Michelangelo and watch the sunset. The hike up to the plaza is only about 15 minutes.
Visit the Galleria dell’Accademia art museum. It is home to one of the world’s most magnificent marble statues: Michael Angelo’s David, or indeed visit the Gucci Fashion Museum.
Make your way along the Arno river to the Ponte Vecchio bridge, built in 1345. It was Florence’s first bridge over the river. It is so unique because it is the only bridge that wasn’t destroyed during the world wars. Nowadays, the bridge has shops selling gold and silver jewellery, so you won’t directly have the feeling you are crossing a bridge.
Just walk around the streets of Florence and wallow in its unique mix of culture and fashion. A great place for a bit of retail therapy!!!!!
Pisa
The majority of things to do in Pisa are all centrally located at the Piazza dei Miracoli (aka Square of Miracles, aka Piazza del Duomo). This includes the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Pisa Cathedral, the Pisa Baptistery, Opera del Duomo Museum, Sinopie Museum, and Il Camposanto Monumentale.
The main attraction and one of the architectural masterpieces in the city square, you will want to see, is the world famous (UNESCO World heritage Site) Leaning Tower of Pisa. Out of all the Pisa attractions, it tops the list of the must see sights in Pisa.
Things to do in Pisa
Visit the Leaning Tower of Pisa, the Pisa Cathedral, the Pisa Baptistery, Opera del Duomo Museum, Sinopie Museum, and Il Camposanto Monumentale.
The Leaning Tower – Pisa’s most visited attraction and probably the most famous tower in the world, also known by the name La Torre Pendente.
The Tower of Pisa is the bell tower for the Pisa Cathedral. Construction started in 1173, and it was completed in 1372 (200 years later!). While the tower was meant as a showy piece to display the wealth of the city, it became known for its lean. The city of Pisa lies on marshy soil, and its loose underground subsoil caused the tower to lean due to a sinking foundation on one side. In 2001, engineers managed to stabilise the building for at least the next 200 years. For the first time in history, the Leaning Tower of Pisa has managed to stay in place, even though it’s still technically leaning.
Lucca
Lucca is a city on the Serchio river in Italy’s Tuscany region. It’s known for the well-preserved Renaissance walls encircling its historic city centre and its cobblestone streets. Broad, tree-lined pathways along the tops of these massive 16th and 17th century ramparts are popular for strolling and cycling.
For us, the best experience of Lucca is getting lost in its narrow streets and admiring the rich heritage of almost every building that you come across in the old town centre. Its very Italian outdoor culture of bars and restaurants is a joy to experience. In our opinion, Lucca is marvellous old town to visit during your stay in Tuscany.
Siena
One of our favourite cities in Tuscany. Piazza del Campo, nicknamed Il Campo, is the heart and soul of Siena. It’s one of Europe’s great medieval squares. All routes in Siena radiate both to and from Il Campo.
Built on a fortified hill top, for historical defence, it is a steep climb upwards from the shuttle bus drop off point.
The Palazzo Pubblico is another landmark to carve out some time for on your one day in Siena itinerary. The palace was built in 1297-1308 for the Council of Nine, the governing body of Siena.
Siena was a main pilgrimage stop on the way to Rome. It raked in money from manufacturing and banking.
Although Florence gets most of the glory, Siena was a co-equal and rival of Florence in the 14th and 15th centuries. The town had a flourishing culture of humanism and a progressive democratic government.
Artists such as Duccio, Simone Martini, and Ambrogio Lorenzetti were part of the important Sienese painting school, producing some of the best art in Tuscany.
After centuries of battles, Florence conquered the city once and for all in 1555. Siena became a backwater for six centuries. It remained under the rule of the Medici until the unification of Italy in 1861.
On the upside, Siena’s loss became our sightseeing gain. As a consequence of this antiquated period, Siena preserved its medieval architecture and setting.
Siena is also known for a crazy medieval horse race, the Palio of Siena. It’s a twice a year celebration held on July 2 and August 16. Siena’s gorgeous medieval piazza, Il Campo, is transformed into a medieval race track.
The race is a frantic 3 laps, lasting 90 seconds in total. Only 10 horses can race. The horses represent 10 of the 17 contrade of Siena and are drawn at random.
There are no rules. Even an unseated horse can win the race so long as it is first past the post. It’s standing room only. 50,000 people usually attend the races, with much excitement and screaming. It’s important to keep the race dates in mind when planning a visit to Siena. Either you’ll want to join in the frenzy, otherwise avoid the congestion.
Things to visit
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Duomo Museum
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Siena Cathedral Complex
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Il Campo
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Palazzo Pubblico
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Santa Maria della Scala
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Torre del Mangia or Pinacoteca
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Historic Centre
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Medici Fortress
San Gimignano
San Gimignano is a medieval village named ‘the Manhattan of the Middle Ages’ because of its majestic towers. It had 72 towers in its heyday. Now 14 remain on this hilltop settlement rising above Tuscany's Elsa Valley.
San Gimignano has stood on this beautiful hilltop for over 800 years, dating back to the Middle Ages. Back in those times, families competed to build the tallest towers, all trying to outdo each other. The higher you could build, the more you elevated your status as the wealthiest family in the town. As a direct consequence of this Gimignano has retained its feudal atmosphere and appearance.
Its location in Val d’Elsa, 56 km south of Florence, provided an important relay point for pilgrims travelling to or from Rome on the Via Francigena. The town became independent in 1199 and between the 11th and the 13th century the noble families and upper middle-class merchants who controlled the free town built many fortified tower houses.
After 1353, the town went into a period of decline due to waves of famine and plague that caused a drastic decrease in population. Within a hundred years, the town was downgraded to the level of the other lands under the Florentine control. This status, however, prevented the town from the urban renewal that transformed many similar Italian historical towns after the Middle Ages.
Do not forget to try an ice-cream from the famous Gelateria Dondoli.
A sense of Tuscany, Northern Italy 2023
The topology of Tuscany is mainly hilly and mountainous with some fertile plains, which are home to a multitude of large garden centres and vineyards. Tuscany is famous for its wonderful wines, with Chianti being the most famous. Its western edge is bordered by the Mediterranean Sea. Two thirds of the region are crossed and bordered by the Apennine Mountains. The coastal areas are fairly mild all year round, while the interior has considerable temperature fluctuations between winter and summer.
The region has a history of Etruscan followed by Roman era. Following on from the Romans, Tuscany was very heavily influenced by the wealthy ruling Medici family. During its final Renaissance and Modern eras, the politics of the region was heavily influenced by the French Imperialism and laterally Fascism. Since 1970s establishment of Italian regional government, Tuscany has always been ruled by the centre left parties.
In terms of Art, Tuscany is regarded as the ‘Art palace of Italy’. That title alone should justify any visit to this culturally vibrant region of Northern Italy.
The best time to visit Tuscany, in our opinion, is April - June or September - October. The temperatures are still mildly warm and cities, towns are less crowded. June is especially festive in this region, with parades, dances and games.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Tuscany, Northern Italy 2023:-
(1) Our visit to Siena in Tuscany, an UNESCO heritage site, was the highlight of our entire trip.
(2) Our second choice would be visiting Florence, and the Duomo.
(3) Our third would be visiting Lucca, another UNESCO heritage site, with its amazing rampart fortifications.
As always, the people we met on the tour and our Travel Department guide, Laura and the various bus drivers, enriched the whole experience.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Italy - (AL 4 - 10) A seven day directed tour of the highlights of Lake Garda, Verona & Venice.
Our experience and observations following seven days visiting the tourist attractions of Riva Del Garda, Verona, Venice and an Alpine tour bringing in Canale di Tenno and a winery.
Our Italian Adventure: Riva del Garda, Verona, Venice and Alpine tour.
Retirement has its perks, and one of the best is the freedom to travel at our own pace. Recently, we took a trip — exploring the stunning landscapes and vibrant cities of Northern Italy. Our journey took us from the tranquil shores of Riva del Garda to the historic streets of Verona, the canals of Venice and the awe-inspiring landscape of our Alpine tour. Each destination had its unique charm, and we are excited to share our experiences with you!
Link to a video and still image montage of our Sept 2024 Riva del Garda in Italy:-
Link to a video and still image montage of our Sept 2024 Verona in Italy:-
Link to a video and still image montage of our Sept 2024 Venice in Italy:-
Link to a video and still image montage of our Sept 2024 Alpine tour in Italy:-
Link to a video and still image montage of our Sept 2024 Walking & Cycling tour in Italy:-
Link to a video and still image montage of our Sept 2024 Boat Tour in Lake Garda Italy:-
Our first visit to Venice took place back in October 2007:-
Youtube link to the JustRetired50Plus video and still image montage of our July 2013 Venice trip, when we visited Venice again for a few days prior to embarking on a Mediterranean cruise:-
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/CsyMOV1s9X8
In considering a trip to this region of northern Italy, we decided to take a guided tour with the Travel Department, with a guide on-hand (Anna-Lisa) whilst visiting each of the three main holiday locations of (1) Riva del Garda (2) Verona, and (3) Venice.
The tour comprised seven nights staying in a three star hotel on a half-board basis. All of our daily coach trips began and ended at our Brione hotel in Riva del Garda.
During our tour free days, there were optional tours available at extra costs. We did an Alpine and wine tasting tour. On another optional day, we did both walking and cycling trips along the well worn trails and bicycle paths around Riva. These trails and paths are in the main separated for road traffic for safety.
After our seven nights at the Brione Hotel in Riva del Garda we flew back to Dublin from Verona airport.
Days 1-2: Riva del Garda – A Peaceful Haven on Lake Garda
Our adventure began in Riva del Garda, a gem on the northern tip of Lake Garda. We chose Riva for its combination of breathtaking natural beauty, outdoor activities, great restaurants and relaxed atmosphere. Nestled at the foot of dramatic mountains and hugged by the lake's crystal-clear waters, Riva del Garda was the perfect place to unwind and ease into our Italian escape.
Strolling Along the Lakeside Promenade
Our first day was all about soaking in the views. We took a leisurely stroll along the lakeside promenade, enjoying the fresh air and gentle breeze. It’s a great walk — flat, scenic, and filled with delightful cafes where we could stop for a cappuccino or a glass of local wine. The colourful buildings along the waterfront were postcard-perfect, and we found ourselves stopping frequently to capture the moment.
Exploring the Old Town and Local Markets
Riva’s old town is a charming mix of narrow streets, small squares, and historic buildings. We visited the Rocca di Riva, a medieval fortress that now houses a museum with fascinating exhibits on the local history and culture. We also loved wandering through the weekly market, which was brimming with fresh produce, cheeses, and local crafts. It was the perfect place to pick up a few souvenirs and a delicious picnic lunch. The market alternates, each Wednesday, between Riva and Arco.
Cruising the Lake to Limone sul Garda
One of the highlights of our stay in Riva was a boat trip across the lake to Limone sul Garda and Malcesine. The boat ride itself was a joy — with the Alps as a backdrop and the sun sparkling on the water. Limone is famous for its lemon groves, and we spent a wonderful afternoon exploring the town, sampling limoncello, and enjoying a seafood lunch right by the water.
Panoramic lift to the Bastion
For a super vantage point to take great photos of the town of Riva and the Northern end of Lake Garda, take the relatively new panoramic lift up to the Bastion ruin overlooking the lake. The lift is located at the foot of Mount Rocchetta and cost €8 return fare. Again, there is a very nice restaurant there, so wonderful to have a drink while feasting your eyes on the extraordinary panoramic view.
Days 3: Verona – Stepping Back in Time
After a day of lakeside bliss, we took a short drive to Verona, a city that felt like stepping into a storybook. Verona is famous as the setting for Shakespeare’s Romeo and Juliet, but it has so much more to offer than just the famous balcony!
Discovering Verona’s Roman Roots
We kicked off our Verona adventure with a visit to the Arena di Verona, a stunning Roman amphitheater right in the heart of the city. It’s smaller than Rome’s Colosseum but wonderfully preserved and still used for concerts and operas. From there, we wandered over to the Ponte Pietra, a Roman bridge with breathtaking views over the Adige River.
A Taste of Verona’s Culture
Piazza delle Erbe was our next stop, a bustling market square surrounded by colourful frescoed buildings and historic towers. We took our time sampling local treats — a scoop (or two!) of gelato and some pastissada de caval, a Veronese specialty, horse stew. We also couldn’t resist stopping at a local enoteca for a tasting of Amarone, the rich red wine from the nearby Valpolicella region.
Finding Romance in Unexpected Places
We did, of course, visit the fictional Juliet’s Balcony, which was charming despite the crowds. But what we loved most was simply wandering the streets and getting lost among the beautiful architecture. We stumbled upon hidden courtyards, quaint shops, and cozy cafes — and realised that romance is found in the little moments and unexpected places.
Days 5: Venice – A City Like No Other
Venice is a city that defies description. Although our third time to visit, from the moment we arrived, we were captivated by its unique beauty. Venice is a city of canals and narrow alleys, where every turn reveals something new and wonderful.
We never grow tired of Venice, and every time we visit, we discover something or somewhere new. Venice is the capital of northern Italy’s Veneto region and is build on more than 100 small islands that are separated by canals and linked by over 400 bridges, all located in a lagoon in the Adriatic Sea.
Be wary of of your possessions at the most popular tourist locations. As in all parts of Europe, pickpockets thrive in these locations…………….you have been warned !
Throughout our holiday the weather was perfect for cruising, sun-bathing and touring. We had a wonderful time and all the more enjoyable because we were with a very nice Irish tour group.
Given the different languages spoken, it is always a good idea to get a guide so that you get a better understanding and appreciation of where you are visiting. Our Travel Department guide - Anna-Lisa - accompanied us on all our tours, generously sharing her knowledge and insights. At times, the main guide is supported by location-specific tour guides in order to provide an even more informed and personalised tour. Indeed you can organise your own tour, if you so wish.
Floating Through the Canals
No visit to Venice is complete without a gondola ride, so we did just that. Gliding through the quiet back canals with our gondolier serenading us was an experience we’ll never forget. It was surprisingly peaceful, and we loved seeing Venice from the water. We passed the famous Rialto Bridge, waved at other gondolas, and marvelled at the grand palazzos lining the canals.
Exploring Venice’s Iconic Sights
We toured St. Mark’s Square, visiting St. Mark’s Basilica and climbing the Campanile for a panoramic view of the city. The intricate mosaics inside the basilica were simply stunning. The Doge’s Palace next door was equally impressive, with its ornate ceilings, grand halls, and the Bridge of Sighs — which we walked across, imagining the stories it holds.
Venetian Delights: Food and Finds
We made it a point to sample Venetian cuisine, starting with cicchetti, the Venetian version of tapas, at a little bacaro near the Rialto Market. The seafood was fresh, and the prosecco was crisp — we were in heaven! We also discovered the charming Libreria Acqua Alta, a quirky bookstore where books are stored in bathtubs to protect them from flooding. It was such a unique find and a great place to pick up a few books as souvenirs.
On this trip we made a point of visiting the infamous Harry’s Bar on Calle Vallaresso, near the water and St Mark’s Square, where it has operated since the 1930s. It is home to the Bellini and Carpaccio and has hosted numerous famous people over the years.
Burano and Murano
Although technically Burano is its own separate island, it’s only a short boat ride from Venice and a popular day trip. Burano is known as one of the most colourful islands in the world, with rows of houses boasting all colours and shades of the rainbow. Aside from being a photographer’s dream, Burano is famous for its artisanal lace making.
We also visited Murano and Burano on our 2013 trip.
Murano, like neighbouring Burano, is another beautiful island close to Venice. Murano has earned its nickname as the glass island because of its famous glass making artisans. The history behind this trade started in 1291, when the Venetian Republic forced local glass makers to move to the island of Murano to avoid potential fires. Now the craft is the island’s main attraction for visitors, where they can see glass blowing demonstrations and take home beautiful souvenirs.
Alpine tour and visit to winery
We went on the optional half day Alpine tour, which took in a number of great viewing spots, a visit to the arty town of Canale di Tenno, which acts as a retreat location for artists. In the organic winery we did a guided tour and then enjoyed a wine tasting session with nibbles.
Sense of the cities of Northern Italy
In terms of currency, we were able to use both Euro cash and various credit cards throughout our visit to Venice. However, in Venice ‘Cash is still King’.
Our general experience of the Italian people was that they are very friendly, they dress more stylishly than most and are definitely much more casual, they also have a great affinity with Irish people in terms of being up-beat and with a sense of humour. Indeed, as tourists we felt welcomed in all cities visited.
On our last day we returned to the wonderful restaurant, Bellariva, facing onto the lake on the corner of Via Franz Kafka. A special shout-out for their carbonara and tiramisu - simply delicious.
Our must see recommendation for a trip to Riva del Garda, Verona, and Venice
(1) Our full day in Venice were really enjoyable – Venice is a magical place;
(2) The tours of the different cities, reminding us of the extraordinary rich history of Europe, and
(3) The Italian food, as always, has great variety and is most enjoyable at any time of the year.
Cost per person for the holiday was roughly €1,500 Euro.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at home, on your return.”
“Happiness is found in the journey and rarely in the destination, alone.”
Observations from our trip to Northern Italy
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The majority of apartments and hotels provide television in their rooms with an Italian satellite service. The service offers hundreds of Italian speaking stations only. If you wish to keep in contact with English speaking news stations etc., you will have to bring along with you, your own means of accessing these stations (mobile phone or iPad);
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The book swops in hotels and apartments are generally well stocked, however, the majority of books are in German. Presumably, because of the regions Germanic past and its proximity to Austria. it is also very hard to find books in English in the local book shops. So, bring ample reading material with you for the duration of your vacation;
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We experienced no evidence of any taxi service around Riva, so your only options for transport are walking, cycling, car hire of public transport;
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Italian food in restaurants is fantastic. With fish, pasta, pizza dishes the main offerings. While in this region, if you get overdosed on Italian fair there are some discrete American style burger chains available in shopping centres;
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Due to the size of the wineries in this region, very few produce enough wine to support export. If you are smitten with a particular wine, you can ship home a supply;
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There are no soft white sandy beaches on the lake shoreline. Pebble beaches are ubiquitous on Lake Garda, so swimmers gutty shoes are required for safe entry and exit out of the lake. Also, during periods of extreme temperatures, stoney beaches have a very high solar heat absorption structure. The use of shoes will avoid burnt feet;
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Nightlife is ultra casual in attire, so pack smart as you will need less cloths. We recommend a 10 Kilo case on wheels and a back pack that fits under the seat in front of you on the plane;
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We advise you to bring sun creams with you. We have found it difficult to replicate the sun protection factor, we are used to at home, in the products available locally;
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Be advised that when visiting Venice, a €20 tax per person is now payable. Allied to a restriction on the size of tour groups to 20/ guide in total.
Note: All opinions and recommendations expressed are our own, devoid of any possible coercive sponsorship or advertising funding.