Embracing Tranquility: A Three-Day Escape to Inis Mór in the Aran Islands
Our Irish opinion of a visit to the Aran Islands off the west coast of Ireland.
Link to a full 15 minute stills image and video montage of our Inis Mór in the Aran Islands trip
To view the video select:- https://youtu.be/WFrTU6-3mVM
Link to a short 1 minute stills image and video montage of our Inis Mór in the Aran Islands trip
To view the video select:- https://www.instagram.com/reel/C7gj7qgMkJ3/?igsh=MmZyNDc2dW42emx4
During the tourist season (May - Sept), the ferries can disgorge greater than a thousand visitors per day onto the island. Luckily, the tourist infrastructure on the island can absorb these numbers. The day trippers start to arrive at 1000hrs and depart before 1800hrs. The island is quite serene and tranquil either side of this more intense eight hour period. This is the modern day rhythm of a popular offshore tourist dependent island.
Quite a lot of tourists take a day trip to the Aran Islands as part of their whistle stop tour of Ireland. Our recommendation is to spend 2 - 3 days on the islands to really experience the immersive nature of island life. It is only with this added time that a visitor can slow down to the slower more enjoyable pace of island living.
After a scenic ferry ride from Rossaveel to Inis Mór (The Big Island), the island comes into view, its rugged beauty and dramatic cliffs set the tone for the days ahead. Upon arrival in Kilronan, the island’s main village, we check into a cozy bed and breakfast, where the warm hospitality of Padraic and Ronan make us feel right at home. During our stay on the island we stayed in the Pier House guesthouse situated nearest to the Kilronan ferry drop-off and pickup pier in the harbour, and beside the local bicycle hire outlets.
If you're seeking a serene getaway with a touch of adventure and a wealth of history, then Inis Mór in the Aran Islands is your perfect destination. This small yet enchanting island off the west coast of Ireland offers a delightful blend of natural beauty, rich cultural heritage, and warm local hospitality. Here’s a recount of our blissful three-day stay on Inis Mór.
Day 1: A Warm Welcome and First Impressions
Morning:
Our journey began with an early morning 3.5 hour drive from Dublin to the ferry port of Rossaveel. After parking our car in the ferry port carpark, we walked the 100m to the quay wall where we took the 1pm ferry from Rossaveel to Inis Mór. The light sea breeze and the sight of the island on the horizon filled us with anticipation. Upon docking at Kilronan, the island’s main village, we were greeted by friendly locals and the charming sight of stone walls.
Afternoon:
We checked into a delightful bed and breakfast, where our hosts Ronan & Padraic, made us feel instantly at home. The comfort of a cozy room with a view of the sea set the perfect tone for our stay.
Strolling around Kilronan we quickly got our bearings, whilst all the while enjoying our introduction to the islands narrow roads and laneways, lined on both side with dry stone walls.
Evening:
In Kilronan, just a 5 minute walk from our B&B we enjoyed a sumptuous dinner at the local hotel - the Aran Islands Hotel. The seafood chowder and freshly caught fish were simply divine. We concluded our evening with a peaceful stroll along the harbour, watching the sun set over the water, casting a golden glow on the tranquil surroundings.
Day 2: Delving into History and Culture
Morning:
After a hearty full Irish breakfast, we rented electric bikes—ideal for a leisurely exploration of the island’s scenic paths. Our first stop was Dún Aonghasa, the renowned prehistoric fort perched on a dramatic cliff edge. The gentle 20 minute hike up to the fort from the visitor centre offered stunning views, and standing atop the ancient fortifications, we marvelled at the rugged beauty of the Atlantic Ocean below. Be advised, that this OPW (Office of Public Works) managed tourist attraction does not allow the flying of drones, if you were so inclined. It’s one of the biggest tourist attraction on the Aran Islands, and one of the most popular things to do on Inis Mor. It’s not known for sure, but the fort is believed to be more than 3,000 years old, with portions dating to the Bronze Age and Iron Age.
Afternoon:
Our cultural journey continued with a visit to the Aran Sweater Market. Here, we learned about the intricate patterns and craftsmanship of the famous Aran sweaters. We couldn't resist purchasing a few as keepsakes. A leisurely lunch at a quaint traditional Nan Phaidi café followed, where we enjoyed homemade soup and freshly baked bread.
We spent a very relaxing 2 hours on the most beautiful beach with crystal clear waters, enjoying the warmth of the 17 degree sunshine. The heat of the sun was amplified by the sheltered position of the beach and with little or no breeze we even ventured into the Atlantic waters for a bracing, refreshing swim. This blue flag beach at Cill Mhuirbhigh has to be considered one of Ireland’s finest.
Another of the afternoon’s highlight was a visit to the lesser-known Black Fort (Dún Dúchathair). Its remote location and the dramatic coastal views made it a tranquil spot, perfect for reflecting on the island’s ancient past.
Back near Kilronan, we indulge in a traditional Irish stop at a local pub. Fresh home mad brown bread sandwiches and a pint of Guinness perfectly capped off the day.
Evening:
Dinner at a charming restaurant featured locally sourced ingredients, including succulent lamb and farm-fresh vegetables. Later, we immersed ourselves in the local culture with a traditional music session at a nearby Ti Joe Watty pub. The lively tunes of accordion and Bouzouki coupled with the warmth of the locals, made for a truly memorable experience.
Day 3: Natural Wonders and Lasting Memories
Morning:
After yet another hearty full Irish breakfast, we spent a very relaxing 2 hours on the most beautiful beach (An Tra Mhor), just south of the airport, with crystal clear waters, enjoying the unseasonal early summer warmth. We enjoyed the luxury of having a kilometre long beach completely to ourselves, surrounded by bird song and the lapping waves. A memory we will both cherish.
Following our blissful early morning we set off to explore the Seven Churches (Na Seacht dTeampaill). This historic monastic site, dating back to the 8th century, offered a serene glimpse into the island’s spiritual past. Wandering among the ruins, we felt a deep sense of connection to the history etched into the weathered stones.
We began our final day with a visit to the Wormhole (Poll na bPéist), a natural geological marvel. The rectangular pool carved into the rocky coastline was fascinating, and watching the powerful waves crash into it was mesmerising. This Wormhole has been made famous as the location for two of the ‘Red Bull Cliff Diving’ competitions.
Afternoon:
Our next destination was the island’s highest point, Dún Eochla, a Bronze Age fort offering panoramic views of Inis Mór. The gentle climb was rewarded with breathtaking vistas, making it a perfect spot for a picnic lunch. Surrounded by the island’s unique flora, including rare wildflowers and butterflies, we savoured the tranquility.
We made the steep climb up the Eochall Tower, situated on the highest point on the island. As the tower is closed to the public it allowed us the opportunity to fly our drone, at very low level, and to capture some fabulous panoramic footage of the entire island with the mainland in the distance as an ever present backdrop.
We spent the afternoon leisurely exploring the island’s hidden gems, including its beautiful sandy beaches and quiet coves. The unspoiled nature and peaceful ambiance were rejuvenating.
Evening:
For our final evening, we chose a cliffside spot to watch the sunset. The sky ablaze with colours reflected on the ocean, creating a magical and serene scene. Dinner at a local bistro, featuring fresh Irish seafood and locally grown produce prepared in an Italian pasta and risotto style, was the perfect end to our stay. Later, we immersed ourselves once again in the local culture with a traditional music session at a nearby Ti Joe Watty pub. The lively tunes coupled with the warmth of the locals even got us up dancing, made for a truly memorable experience.
As the sun sets, we stroll along the beach, the sky painted in hues of pink and orange.
As we prepare to leave Inis Mór the next morning, we reflect on the island’s rugged charm, its rich history, and the warm, welcoming spirit of its people. Inis Mór is not just a destination, it’s an experience that stays with you long after you’ve left its shores.
Inis Mór’s blend of natural beauty, rich history, and warm hospitality makes it a perfect destination for all ages seeking both relaxation and adventure.
This three-day itinerary offers just a glimpse of what Inis Mór has to offer. Whether you’re a history buff, a nature enthusiast, or simply looking to escape the hustle and bustle, Inis Mór promises a memorable and rejuvenating retreat.
If you’re planning your next getaway, consider the enchanting Inis Mór. It’s timeless charm, serene landscapes, and vibrant culture promise an unforgettable retreat.
A sense of an Inis Mór in the Aran Islands trip
The official currency of Ireland is the Euro.
Inis Mór is the largest of Ireland’s three Aran Islands, although it’s still only approximately 8 miles long by 2 miles wide with a population over 800. Inishmaan (Inis Meáin) and Inisheer (Inis Oírr) are the other two islands, for reference, and both are even smaller and less populated.
If you get an opportunity during your travels in Ireland, visit one of the offshore islands, as they are unique experiences in beautiful varying settings.
Our general experience, of the people from Inis Mor in the Aran Islands on the edge of the Wild Atlantic tourist trail, was that they are very friendly and they all seem to have a particular liking for talking to strangers.
For such a small country, Ireland really does have a lot to offer in the sightseeing department. Major selling points include sublime seascapes, a strong literary heritage, romantic castle ruins, lively towns and cities, ancient heritage sites and let’s not forget – a patchwork of luscious, emerald landscape.
Not always the most obvious, but the culinary scene in Ireland is absolutely buzzing too. The fact that Ireland is an island lends itself to magnificent seafood and the quality of Ireland’s other food produce is second-to-none. Ireland is famous for its meat and dairy produce and there is a huge focus on local produce and sustainability amongst Irish establishments.
No matter its duration, any Ireland itinerary, especially for first-time visitors to Ireland, should incorporate a smattering of the above to cover off a range of Irish highlights. That way, you’ll scratch the surface across a broad range and uncover where you would like to focus your efforts on your return visit to Ireland – trust us, you will be back!
Plan to under, rather than over-reach on what you see during your vacation in Ireland. Ireland really is so achingly beautiful that you’ll find yourself compelled to stop more often than you think.
Recommendations for a three day trip around Inis Mór in the Aran Islands, Western Ireland
There is no language barrier. It feels like a place out of time, as the island is part of the Gaeltacht, where locals still speak the traditional Irish Gaelic (though have no issues speaking English to visitors). Government grants are available in small areas throughout Ireland, to encourage the Irish to speak only Irish.
Accommodation options on the island are a hotel stay, any number of B&Bs, hostel or Glamping Pods. The Pods are definitely a unique housing option, which can be a fun story to tell. The pods are cute but sparse with no wifi except in the site office. The pods are right across from the beach and only a 5-10 minute walk from the main town (Kilronan).
As a general rule, drive on the left, pass on the right, and don’t be shy about stopping to view the many scenic photo opportunities along the way.
There are plenty of ways to travel around the island of Inis Mór during your stay:-
Cycle ( pedal power or electric )
Walk ( there are scenic looped walks to suit all levels of fitness )
Horse and carriage tours ( Jarveys and their jaunting carts provide a variety of island trips )
Small coach tours ( Small mini-bus drivers provide a variety of island trips )
On our trip we had to make a choice of transport type. We chose the electric bike option as it gave us the opportunity to experience island life at our own pace. Each evening we returned the bikes and took out re-charged ones the following morning. This option gave us the autonomy and freedom to change our itinerary on the fly.
All of these modes of transport feature their own Irish version of unbelievable beauty as you make your way through the dry stone walled roads and fields. Inis More is the setting for the now annual Father Ted festival.
The best time to get good weather and avoid the crowds is the “shoulder season” of May-June and September-October. It is not recommended to visit between November and April, as the gales and squalls are fierce, ferries can’t always run, and days are very short.
The weather in the Aran Islands is incredibly variable, shifting in an instant from sun to rain to crazy wind. Because of this, layers are key, as is having a rain jacket with you pretty much all the time. Comfortable shoes are absolutely critical as well. Inis Mor is entirely exposed with no tree cover, so make sure to wear some sunscreen, even on cloudy days.
The ferries are pretty standard, but thankfully it’s not a long crossing (about 45 minutes from Rossaveel to Inis Mór). It’s important to know that the ferry can be (and often is) a rough crossing, fore-warned is fore-armed. There are bathrooms on board. You will not be allowed bring your own electric bike onto any of the ferries.
When visiting Dún Aonghasa early morning and late afternoon are the least crowded times during peak season, as the day trippers will be tied to ferry schedules.
Great care should be taken at both The Wormhole and Dún Aonghasa as the sea can be unforgiving and the cliff tops lead to sheer drops. The Wormhole has a number of underground channels and a cave, which connect to the Atlantic Ocean. When the tide is in, water rushes into the hole from these and forces the water over the edges, filling the hole from above. It is fascinating and unique. It is just like nature decided to carve out a natural rectangular swimming pool out of rock.
Our must see recommendation for a trip around Inis Mór in the Aran Islands
Our favourite part of the trip was our visit to Dún Aonghasa, the renowned prehistoric fort perched on a dramatic cliff edge.
While on Inis Mór, take in the Ti Joe Watty pub experience, with an Irish traditional and Irish contemporary music session every night starting around 10pm.
Hire a bike and take in the island attractions at your own pace and time.
Spend a few nights on the island to allow yourself to acclimatise to the slower pace of an offshore island life.
With the American Dollar near parity to the Euro during our trip in May 2024, there has rarely been a better time to visit Ireland.
“You should travel away from home, to really appreciate the value of what you have at your home, on your return.”
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